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Smoking Sections

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Lower Smoking Section 
Upper Smoking Section 

Smoking Sections Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Mar 1, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Lower Smoking Section. L to R: Marlboro Man (ligh...


If you want a warm-up to the weekend, or donÂ’'t have the commitment for Sheeprock, check out the Smoking Section. This was a definite hot spot of the fire, hence the name. Almost a dozen short and scruffy one pitch outings are here, as well as a few hard slab and crack testpieces, such as Nooner.

Getting There 

See the Sheeprock directions...

This little outcropping of routes, has a relatively short approach, that quite literally takes about one-cigarette's-time to get there from the car.

Quick'n'dirty route list 

Lower Smoking Section:

The route list starts from right to left. First ascents were by Darren Mabe and various partners, 2004.

At the top of the cairned approach trail, locate an overhanging, right-facing, "shade" boulder and the obvious Nooner crack to the right.

  • **Nooner - 5.12. Next to tall burned limbless tree trunk is a short finger crack to bolted anchor. Pro: small gear, one bolt.

  • *Little Doohah - 5.6. Climb a slab above Nooner. Access it from the right up a ramp. Pro: a few bolts and pro for the timid.

  • *This Ain't Eldo - 5.11+. This ascends an angling arch and underclings and finishes with Nooner. TCUs, 2 bolts.

The following four routes all go to the same anchor at 110' with variations possible....

  • *Pink Lung - 9+ follows the pink bulge, turning the dark grey bulge. Bolts, a few small pieces.

  • **Carcinogen - 9 starts in crack system left of pink lung, up some slab and finshes with Pink or Nicotine. Pro: light SR, and bolts.

  • **Surgeon General - 5.10/11 all bolted direct start to finish on bulge of Nicotine.

  • ***Nicotine - 5.10 starts in angling handcrack, to finger crack, beelines to undercling bulge. Pro: SR and some bolts.

On the left side:

  • Smoker's Cough - 5.6 the wide right facing corner to bombay chimney, traversing to a stance with bolts (orange sling!?). Pro: SR, a few wide pieces. pretty damn-fun novelty pitch!

  • **Marlboro Man - 5.11+ follow the bolted arete and face left of Smoker's Cough. Tricky. 8 or 9 bolts.

Upper Smoking Section:

Up the hill to the left is a long sustained route called ***Emphysema, 5.10d/11a, and two pitch route called ***Sweet Cigarillo. Bring 70m or two ropes.

Climbing Season

For the Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Campground area.

Weather station 3.2 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Smoking Sections
Rock Climbing Photo: Planning the first pitch.

Sweet Cigarillo 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CO : South Platte : ... : Upper Smoking Section
Sweet Cigarillo is a fun, classy, and moderate 2 pitch outing up the center of the Upper Smoking Section Formation.P1. 5.8, 120'. Wander up the slab on friction climbing past some interesting features. Use some shoulder length slings on the bolts in the middle of the pitch to alleviate some of the drag. Pull on to a ledge with two rap bolts by a small, pathetic, burned tree. However, keep traversing left on the ledge/ramp to the base of a grunge filled crack. There is ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Smoking Sections Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Detail of the upper section of Emphysema.  Ring bo...
BETA PHOTO: Detail of the upper section of Emphysema. Ring bo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Smoking Section.  Blue: Emphysema (10+) Gree...
BETA PHOTO: Upper Smoking Section. Blue: Emphysema (10+) Gree...
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Smoking Section
Upper Smoking Section

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