REI Community
Wells Peak / Rabbit Ears
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adam's Rib T 
December's Children T 
Direct North Ridge T 
Forbidden Fruit T 
God's Grace T 
Smokestack T 

Smokestack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Doug Robinson, Galen Rowell (1970)
Season: Spring to fall
Page Views: 2,402
Submitted By: Jan-Thijs Menger on May 28, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
leading up pitch 4

Description 

P1 5.7 straight up the right facing dihedral. Just below the plateau traverse to the left. Gear anchor.
P2 5.10a crux just above the anchor. Some tcu's or small stoppers for protection. Easy afterwards. Tree-anchor.
P3 5.9 straight up through the obvious hand-crack. Afterwards traverse to the left (5.9) until 20ft below a chimney. Tree-anchor.
P4 Easy slab and chimney. Sling or rope-anchor.
P5 5.9 straight up through slab, some protection. Slightly left to a bolt and a flake. Head straight up above the flake and traverse to the left (second bolt). Gear anchor in the next crack.
P6 5.7 Well protected chimney or bad protected (easy) face. Easy terain above the chimney. Tree-anchor.
P7 5.8 Easy, unprotected slab until the start of the hand-crack. Well-protected and good fun! Gear-anchor on the small plateau just below the left-facing flare.
P8 5.9 Chimney/handcrack and some easy scrambling to the top. Gear anchor (small cams)

Location 

See area-description. Start at the obvious rightfacing dihedral in the middle of the southern Rabbit Ear.
Descent: when just below the summit block, walk around and descent through the gully, some third class scrambling, two rappels possible to avoid harder downclimbing.

Protection 

Gear to 4". Some tcu's come in handy at the crux. Gear anchors.


Photos of Smokestack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 8. Super fun!
Pitch 8. Super fun!
Rock Climbing Photo: descent...
descent...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 6 "chimney."
Pitch 6 "chimney."
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 7. Nice little corner.
Pitch 7. Nice little corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rick Ziegler following "crux" traverse o...
Rick Ziegler following "crux" traverse o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber following "crux" traverse of pit...
Climber following "crux" traverse of pit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down pitch 4 and part of 5 run together.
Looking down pitch 4 and part of 5 run together.
Rock Climbing Photo: Left var. of pitch 3 up slab and 5.8 flakes up and...
Left var. of pitch 3 up slab and 5.8 flakes up and...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3. Showing left and right variations.
Pitch 3. Showing left and right variations.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1.
Pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach.
Approach.

Comments on Smokestack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lurker
Administrator
From: Westwood
Nov 16, 2013

This thing is full-value, old school 5.10. Expect slabs, solid runouts and a little bit of exfoliating rock. Altogether good fun!
By Joe Crawford
From: June Lake, California
Mar 13, 2014

Climbed this yesterday (3/12/14) in 7 pitches. The description here is great as is the comment to expect exfoliating rock; makes the slabs pretty full value. Wanted to add pitch lengths (our best guess) and other belay options. We climbed with 2x blue tcu- c4#2 single 00-0 tcu & c4 #3, didn't feel like a #4 would be worth the weight.

1: 5.7 80' up obvious right facing dihedral, gear belay (finger size cams) on ledge.

2: 5.10a 100' crux right off belay (small nut for pro). easier, flared cracks past bonsai bushes to a tree.

3: 5.8r 180' up and left through small cracks to a runout slab (mediocre c4 #3 protects last 15 feet) to flakes then left out of corner, belay at first tree or up another 30' to base of chimney, belay at tree or sling large horn.

4: 5.6 150' up easy, blocky chimney to slab, belay at undercling flakes (small cams).

5. 5.9 200' up 10' to bolt, then left to flakes and 2nd bolt, friction traverse (5.9) to next crack, belay here or continue 40' to belay at small ledge with small cracks.

6: 5.8 150' up easy slab with small gear to 30' runout slab (5.7), climb flared thin hands to fingers crack to bottom of the left facing flare.

7: 5.9 100' climb the flare (sucks with a pack), scramble to top belay on small pine and crack.

Descend via 3rd class around the summit block to the gully climbers left. The tunnel through described in the guide book looked too tight for our liking, instead we rapped 20' off of 2 slung blocks.
By tahoemnts
From: Truckee, California
Oct 12, 2014

My buddy and I did this climb last fall. Beware that the topo for this route is so way out of date and totally not to scale. The topo may show short face to bolt when in reality the bolt is about 60 ft away with several features between that aren't on the topo.

Be ready for adventure climbing into the unknown. Not really a climb to rave about in my eyes.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About