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Sunset Spire
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Smokestack Lightning 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rick Shull
Season: Any! (south facing)
Page Views: 209
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Jul 25, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Farthest route right on Sunset Spire. Smokestack Lightning starts with a fun bulge, passes some easy terrain and finishes on a fantastic little steep wall.
Very fun.

Location 

Five feet right of the dihedral/prow/crack feature in the center of the face.

Protection 

Bolts to rap anchors


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By Kibble
Aug 8, 2015

I may have missed a bolt, but I encountered a ~15 foot run out between the first and second bolt. The climbing was very easy and should not be a problem for a confident leader but a fall at the second bolt would not have been good. If you get worried you could easily place a piece to protect it.

Additionally, I encountered several Yellowjackets building a nest about halfway up the wall. The did not sting me but it was scary for a second.
By Evan Wisheropp
Aug 21, 2016

Climbed it again yesterday, and just noticed the runnout, I don't think you missed a bolt (climbed it on gear last time, even more runnout). I think the original grades of this one and Fire It Up might be a tad exaggerated. Most people tend to find Smokestack Lightning a tad easier, and the 5.9 sections are very very short. Really fun climbing anyway!! Also, the yellowjackets may have moved on, I couldn't see them this time.

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