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Main Boulder aka The Wedge
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Chick Floater 
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Smoker's Paradise Project 

Hueco: V9+ Font: 7C

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V9+ Font: 7C [details]
FA: Jeremy Finnegan, 2009
Page Views: 2,087
Submitted By: Ben Snyder on Apr 8, 2008

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Crux old beta.

Reopened after flood damage! MORE INFO >>>


On the arete facing the main trail: start standing with the left hand on a good rounded sidepull at chest height and a right hand on/around the arrete. Climb up and left with difficulty (and some technical trickery) to a good jug, through the 'hole' created by the pungase and cube boulders, and then to a good no-hands rest on the wide ledge below Center Route, which this problem finishes on.

Starting as for Pungase (sit) would add some difficulty, but not too much else (aesthetically speaking) to this already interesting line. Ditto finishing on Sheik Power (which would add considerable difficulty)...


A couple pads.

Photos of Smoker's Paradise Project Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom start.
Bottom start.

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By Jeremy Finnegan
Aug 24, 2009
rating: V9+ 7C

FA ascents get to the right to name and grade the problem right, so I am thinking off leaving it as the linkage, will update later though. Cool problem but maybe not worth the damage to the rock inflicted though in the area.
By Ben Snyder
From: CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
Dec 1, 2009

Congrats on the FA! Great job - I will change the grade to what you suggested (as mine was only a guess as to what it might be once completed). What beta did you use? Got a name yet? Once again, awesome!
By Max Krimmer
May 19, 2011

I ripped a giant chunk off the left hand crimp while matching--revealing a small (and hollow) but good edge about four inches lower. Temporarily easier now, maybe hard V8/9--although this hold will surely break sometime in the near future and most likely bump the grade back up....
By Jeremy Finnegan
Jun 9, 2011
rating: V9+ 7C

Nice, Max. I think that marks like the 4th or 5th time that section has broke, lol.

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