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The Pluton
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Smoke 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: ZN, ND, JB
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 62
Submitted By: Nat D on Jul 4, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: P2 and P3, easy to link but could result in some m...

Description 

This route starts on the northeast quadrant of the Pluton

The crux is a few moves on the 3rd pitch to negotiate a dihedral/chimney.

The "start" of the route is somewhat vauge, kind of a choose your own adventure. On the north east side of the monolith, look for a nice starting point anywhere on the class 3 slabs underneath the eroded cave-ish wall. Make your way up and to the climbers left until you can see a notch/chimney leading to the eastern false summit. Shoot from there.

This route was actually very fun, all easy slab through the trees, very wandering for the first 2 pitches. The 3rd pitch is the most fun and get you on the summit. Can easily link any combo of the pitches but rope drag might be annoying.

Scramble or short rope across the top to one of the obvious rappel trees on the summit.

Location 

UTM 48 U 578975.73 m E 5370295.84 m N

Protection 

Camalots .3-2 did the trick, one full set of cams plus doubles in the .4-1 range would be a safe bet.


Photos of Smoke Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch one (dashes) with overall route (dots)
BETA PHOTO: Pitch one (dashes) with overall route (dots)

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