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Devil's Den Bouldering
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Up in Smoke 

Smoke on the Water 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Troy Fauteux
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 187
Submitted By: Brad Fauteux on Sep 10, 2016

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The Climb 

Stand Start at the end of "Up in Smoke" on the good slopers. Pull on and make some hard moves using mad core and some tricky footwork to traverse right on small holds and grab the Butthole with difficulty. From here keep moving right and make a hard left hand move to the sloper on the left side of the dihedral on "The Big Ocean". Get a magical right heel hook in the lower pocket and make a hard compression move to gain slopers and pinches for the right hand. Work out some more magic and top out as for "The Big Ocean".

This is a stellar line with some great movement and hard moves. Could potentially be the best of the three problems on this face.

Location 

On the Butthole Boulder. Stand Start at the end of "Up in Smoke" on the sloper shelf.

Protection 

4 pads and a spotter are recommended.


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By Graham O.
Sep 10, 2016

Wow sounds like a cool problem, nice find and really cool name! I can totally imagine a heel hook in the pocket seeming magical at first glance.

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