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Smoke on the Water 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Argueso & Peter Noebels, 1998
Season: Summer
Page Views: 3,366
Submitted By: chris deulen on Sep 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Chris Deulen in the midst of the traverse.


Currently the first route on the left of the overhang, this amazing 11c starts from a sketchy belay, going to a large block that may fall off in 50 years. There is a glued hold just above the first bolt. The 3rd bolt starts the move to the right. A jug seems to magically appear whenever the holds run out. You may find yourself pumped out and epic-ing by the time you get to the somewhat of a downclimb crux near the last two bolts. Gain a good side pull, then jug to the last two convenient open gate anchors with a third bolt between the two with a biner. It's pretty sick to end 30 feet to the right of where you started, getting lowered past your belayer into the air of the huge open Punchbowl.


This is the first route on the left when you enter the area. There was a dead cow directly behind this route on the hill last time we were there (Labor Day '06).


8 bolts, I believe.

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By Nate Adams
Mar 5, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Chris - I've been able to contact several first ascentionists for Lime Creek - not much info is available as far as route names, etc. for the Punchbowl. All of the existing lines were there before I set foot in Lime Park. I'd say the statute of limitations for route naming has expired, unless someone out there has beta. I vote for "To Send is Bovine".
By chris deulen
From: Castle Rock
Apr 5, 2007

Nate, thanks for the vote! I forgot to include that the name was a suggestion, rather than a firmly established title. I will gladly change it should the FFAist step forward. I hope that cow is gone by the time we return this summer!
By Nate Adams
Jan 26, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The route is actually called Smoke on the Water, put up by Mike Argueso & Peter Noebels in 1998.
By Seth Hogan
From: Frisco, Co
Aug 14, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Pretty awesome route and, I think, a pretty solid onsight. With that said, I down-graded the route to 5.11b personally, because it's basically straightforward power-endurance with no real technical moves. Also, I think we found some remains of the cow, lol. Just some bone.

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