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Routes in Smoke 'n' Ash Boulder
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Ash Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ashes to Ashes T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blowin' Smoke T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cube Arete V1 5 |
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Lament Configuration V2 5+ |
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Smoke 'n' Ash T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,731 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | S Perry on Aug 7, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Frances Fierst, C S |
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Description
This is a fantastic crack climb, even though it is fairly short. Jam the overhanging crack making use of some face features when possible. Once you reach the roof, plug a high piece and find the crucial holds/jams to pull over the lip.
This is a 5.11a in Mark "Indy" Kochte's "Climb Maryland!" guide, but only a 5.10d in the Horst Falcon Guide.
This is a 5.11a in Mark "Indy" Kochte's "Climb Maryland!" guide, but only a 5.10d in the Horst Falcon Guide.
Protection
Eats hand and and fist sized gear (#3 & #4 C4 or large hexes). Doubles are helpful, but you can lead it with just a #4 and a #3.
You can TR this by (1) having the belayer stand under the bolts (which are climber's right, sky facing, and easily accessible from the top) and by draping the climber's end over the central prominence. Not ideal, but it works fine and friction won't hinder taking in slack. Mind how the rope lies over the rock—most edges are rounded. Put a double length sling on each bolt, add a quad, and you're golden to hit a couple lines.
You can also easily (2) set up a natural anchor on a boulder on the top.
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