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Smoke 'n' Ash Boulder
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Smoke 'n' Ash 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 373
Submitted By: Spencer Perry on Aug 7, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Smoke 'n' Ash

Description 

This is a fantastic crack climb, even though it is fairly short. Jam the overhanging crack making use of some face features when possible. Once you reach the roof, plug a high piece and find the crucial holds/jams to pull over the lip.

This is a 5.11a in Mark "Indy" Kochte's "Climb Maryland!" guide, but only a 5.10d in the Horst Falcon Guide.

Location 

Obvious overhanging hand crack splitting the east side of the boulder.

Protection 

Eats hand and and fist sized gear (#3 & #4 C4 or large hexes). Doubles are helpful unless you are comfortable backcleaning/bumping gear. For the roof a large nut, small hex, or medium cam would probably work.

You can easily set up a natural anchor on a boulder on the top. There are some bolts up and to the right of the top out, but I do not think they would work well for a top rope setup.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Getting benighted on Smoke 'n Ash
Getting benighted on Smoke 'n Ash

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By GS Gibbons
Jun 13, 2017

Bushwhacking approach to a super physical, short, fun climb.

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