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Smoke Filled Rooms 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Billy Smallen, Grug, Herb Crimp, July 2008
New Route: Yes
Season: Morning sun, Afternoon shade
Page Views: 1,088
Submitted By: Billy Smallen on Jul 27, 2008

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Billy Smallen on 'Smoke Filled Rooms'

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a fun and super varied route! Start off either straight below the crack on big rails (5.10a-ish) or over left in the depression of the ledge (5.10d-ish) and then walk into the crack. Get a couple pieces (#1 Camalot in the corner, #0.75 Camalot a move above in the first pod). Pull on the corner finger crack and get a stemming rest on the ledge. Transfer into the main crack and climb up clipping the bolt right before the crux sequence. Face climb above the bolt either pulling into the bottoming crack (harder) or stemming and face climbing straight up. Get a hand hold higher than the anchors to make the clip, poor rock above limited my anchor placement options.

    Location 

    This route is right (upriver) about 150ft from the far right side of Schoolroom #1 one climb right of ‘Midnight Frightening'. The straight up start begins behind a bush on a large slopping gold colored ledge below a very varnished wall, a bolt is visible about 8ft down and left of the anchors.

    Protection 

    1 each 0.3 Camalot to 2 Camalot, 1 bolt. It is possible to place a Red/Yellow Hybrid Alien (or maybe just a red alien) and a large micro stopper in the last pod before the bolt. It is also possible (but probably to hard to be worth it) to place a large stopper a couple moves above the bolt.


    Photos of Smoke Filled Rooms Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Smoke Filled Rooms follows the crack at right of t...
    Smoke Filled Rooms follows the crack at right of t...

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