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Smoke 'em If You Got 'em 

Smoke 'em If You Got 'em 

Hueco: V2 Font: 5+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ [details]
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Page Views: 37
Submitted By: Systematic on Dec 27, 2016  with updates from kenr

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Start on a good hold about waist high to the right of the verical crack system. A couple moves to get established on the crack, then up the crack to the horizontal.

Location 

At an overhanging verical finger crack, to the right of a cave / low overhang.

Protection 

Pad or two.


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By kenr
Jul 18, 2017
rating: V0 4

I suspect the V2 grade for this problem shown above on this page as of June 2017 was just following the old print guidebook. The problem with that approach to the grading is that the old guidebook was not using real "Huecos Tanks" / USA nationwide V grades. One of the pages up front explicitly says that V2 in that old guidebook corresponds to V0- in the normal USA nationwide "Huecos" scale.

My take from climbing "Smoke Em" recently is that it only gets up to V2 if keep going straight up the corner above the horizontal ledge. But the traditional boulder problem (in both the old guidebook and the newer Rakkup phone app) stops at the obvious horizontal ledge about 15 feet up. Only that far I felt the moves were not harder than V0: fairly positive holds, with one or two long (but not dynamic) reaches.

Consider also that the Rakkup phone app as of June 2017 also shows this problem as a Top-Rope climbing route, and gives it a normal USA climbing grade of 5.9. My understanding of the USA climbing grade versus bouldering grade scales is that 5.9 corresponds to V0- (while a V2 bouldering grade is more like a sequence in a 5.11 roped-climbing route).

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