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Black Widow Slab
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Bands of Gold S 
Black Widow Recess T 
Caught in the Web S 
Center T 
Consilience S 
Dracula S 
F**k You S 
Far Right, The T 
Fire Down Below, The T 
Gyromancy S 
Kate Moss S 
Mordred S 
Pipe Dreams S 
Resonator S 
Right Side T 
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 
SMERSH T 
Smoke Down S 
Specter T 
Wired T 

Smoke Down 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steve Sangdahl, John Baldwin, Tom Englebach, 1996
Page Views: 139
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Jul 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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"Barn door" crux.

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  • Description 

    Decent climbing, but short. As Rolofson says, "Don't be fooled", it's much harder than it looks. Angle left past the first bolt and mantle onto a ledge. Move left around the arete and up to the roof. At this point you are just right of Wired which escapes out left around the roof. Layback the right side of the roof, crux, via one of at least two methods.

    This felt much harder to everyone in our group of 3 than either Consilience or Gyromancy which we had done clean earlier in the day. We all fell and hung several times on Smoke Down. Perhaps it's not technically harder, but it's harder to do clean due to the steepness and treachery of the layback.

    Location 

    On the right side of Black Widow where the rock becomes really grungy. Just right of Wired, a right-facing, right leaning trad corner capped by a roof.

    Protection 

    5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor with rings.


    Photos of Smoke Down Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The crux. You can either layback all the way up or...
    The crux. You can either layback all the way up or...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing past the first bolt is treacherous.
    Climbing past the first bolt is treacherous.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Move left around the arete and balance up to the r...
    Move left around the arete and balance up to the r...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Stepping up to the crux roof. The corner to the le...
    Stepping up to the crux roof. The corner to the le...

    Comments on Smoke Down Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Brent Apgar
    From: Out of the Loop
    Jul 5, 2009

    I'm not sure that this is a full three star route, but it's certainly worth doing. It's very engaging for how short it is.
    By slim
    Administrator
    Sep 19, 2012
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    I thought this was a really nice little route. Good variety, and the top looks a little bit intimidating - but it unfolds perfectly.

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