REI Community
Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bisector S,TR 
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey S 
Bolt Talk S 
Bongo Fury S 
Butter Side Down S 
Clone Call S 
Demasiadas Cervezas S,TR 
Eight Flake S 
Flinch S 
Grinch S 
Her Majesty's Secret Tranverse S,TR 
Horton Here's a Tufa S 
Mas Cerveza S 
Prototype S 
ReKleiner, The S,TR 
Rolling out the Red Carpet S 
Smitten Psychopath S 
Socks On Chicks S 
Star Belly Sneeches S 
Sugar S 
There's a Wocket in my Pocket S 
Thing 1 Thing 2 S 
Unnatural S 
Yertle the Turtle S 

Smitten Psychopath 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Curtis Mai
Page Views: 867
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Nov 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Smitten Psychopath is the first climb on the left side of the Dr. Seuss Wall. Look for a prominent, short arete with three bolts. Belay from a narrow ledge that runs along the base of the wall. A couple moves off the ground lead to a solid ledge. From the ledge climb up and left through a small overhang. The last clip is ballancy. The rock is a little sharp on this one, and the climbing looks easier than it is.

Protection 

Three bolts to anchors.


Comments on Smitten Psychopath Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ted Pinson
From: Chicago, IL
Jan 15, 2017

Is this still the left-most climb? I climbed something on this wall a few weeks ago that somewhat matches this description, but it did NOT feel like 5.9 (5.8 at best, I'd even say 5.6), although it did have 3 bolts like most of the routes on the left side.
By Jesse Bruni
From: Austin
Feb 15, 2017

Ted,

No, the leftmost route is new, bolted and FA'd by Karl Vochatzer called "There's a Wocket in my Pocket" and goes at about 5.8.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About