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Pratt's Rock aka Pratt's Overhang
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial Burial 
Crystal Corner 
Gill Swing 
Pratt's Mantle 
Pratt's Overhang 
Smith Overhang 
Smith Overhang Sit 
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Smith Overhang Sit 

Hueco: V10-11 Font: 8A

Type:  Boulder, 1'
Original:  Hueco: V10-11 Font: 8A [details]
FA: ?
Season: winter
Page Views: 353
Submitted By: Tank Evans on Mar 1, 2014

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This sit-start is extremely height-dependent and ranges from V8-9 to V12ish depending on your span.

Sit start with left hand on obvious jug and right hand on an undercling. Make a big move up and right to a sidepull, and throw left to the start hold of Smith Overhang. If you are tall enough (i.e. >6 feet) to go jug-to-jug up the thing without ever moving your feet, it is probably closer to V9 (and a good one at that). The problem gets increasingly harder the shorter you are as you have to make the crux move off of poorer and poorer holds. For me at 5' 10" , using the 2nd-worst hold, it's more like V10+. For someone like Peter Beal who is shorter, it's probably more like V12-13 because he has to use the worst hold on the wall.

Nevertheless, it's a great addition to the Schwagstaff circuit regardless of how you climb it.


2 small pads.

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