Exciting and improbable! This line climbs the blank face to the right of the CCK
From the GT Ledge at the second pitch of CCK
, climb up fairly moderate terrain into a small right-facing corner, right of the CCK Direct
line. Exit the corner (5.10, with some spaced gear) up and left to a stance at a deep horizontal. Place your last pieces and step right towards the huge prow, then up the face on very small holds.
This route was originally 5.11c in the Williams guide, but it feels much harder, rivaling many Gunks 5.12 lines. There are rumors of broken holds, but nothing confirmed.
Starts on the GT Ledge by CCK
Thin to #2 Camalot.
By Josh Janes
Jun 16, 2013
Felt 11c, but pretty contrived with the CCK crack a few feet to the left and much easier terrain just around the corner to the right. More like a silly variation to a very good route.