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Smiling Jay is the first route that local hero David Bloom added to the Waterfall, and to this day remains one of the better warmups on the right wall.
The pitch is characterized by a mostly finger sized crack with plenty of face holds. There is a short section of 5.9+ climbing that is hard to protect at 1/3 height... just after this section are some bomber #.5's. The rock can sound hollow in the middle of the route, but the boulder problem crux is up high on solid rock, and is protected with a bomber medium sized wire. Fun stuff, and a great intro to the Right Wall.
Right wall, middle section, ends on ledge.
Doubles from #1 TCU through .75 Camalot. Medium wires, draws.
Smiling Jay, and Soldier of Fortune on the right
By Tavis Ricksecker
Nov 13, 2007
It might just be the warm-up, but it's a fun route on quality rock!