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Chilly Willy Wall
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L to R R to L Alpha
Candy Corn S 
Donkey Show S 
Giant Boulder Left S 
Giant Boulder Middle S 
Giant Boulder Right S 
Half Baked Alaska S 
No Sketching S 
Smedley's Pancakes S 
Tasty Freeze T 
Turkey Sandwich T 
Wet Willies S 

Smedley's Pancakes 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 42'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jason Halladay, Allison Fritz
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 262
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Aug 13, 2016

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It's a bit crunchy and dirty yet but the dihed...

Description 

Climb crunchy and licheny rock in the the dihedral right of No Sketching to shared anchors with that route.
Climb up the dihedral using offset cracks and holds on the dihedral's right side. A strenuous pull between bolts one and two rewards you with easier climbing in the middle section. Stem your way up and climb the faint arête on the right. Move left to the finishing bulge and a perfectly-placed pocket to pull the bulge to the anchor.
I've done loads of brushing and cleaning on it because I think it's a good addition to the area but for sure it needs more brushing if one is so inclined. Expect parts of the coursely-grained rock to crumble with more ascents.

Location 

The dihedral a few paces right of No Sketching.

Protection 

Six bolts to the anchor of No Sketching. Recommend stick-clipping first bolt.


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