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Smears for Fears 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Season: spring and fall
Page Views: 1,580
Submitted By: Gary Savage on Feb 7, 2007

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Moving thru the first small roof. The second crux ...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the sweetest slab routes in red Rocks. Even though this is bolted one should view it as a trad climb as the bolts are fairly far apart and were put in on lead at available stances. The first crux comes about 15 feet up. The next crux is clipping and climbing above the last bolt. Long fall potential here if you skitter off. Once you get your hands on the ledge a quick mantle will slow the heart rate back down and easy 5th class to the anchor.

Location 

The obvious bolted slab 100' right of Lebanese Jojo.

Protection 

Bolts and a couple of small pieces right off the ground.


Photos of Smears for Fears Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The first crux on Smears for Fears.
The first crux on Smears for Fears.

Comments on Smears for Fears Add Comment
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By Cunning Linguist
Jan 16, 2012

After back-to-back efforts, the consensus in my group was that this was at least as difficult as Rojo. 11b/c may be lowballing it a bit.
By Alex Shainman
From: Redlands, CA
Apr 27, 2017
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

EXCELLENT pitch of techy steep slab! 11b/c is a sandbag...the Handren guide is more accurate at 11d. Also...you need more than just some small gear to supplement the bolts. It'll be obvious what you need before the 1st bolt. A 4 Camalot or 4 Friend size cam is very nice higher up. Just sayin'...maybe a draw with lockers for the last bolt too ;-) Best to do this one in cooler temps.

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