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Type:  Ice, 1 pitch
Original: WI3-4 [details]
FA: John Bragg and Rick Wilcox (1972-73 season)
Page Views: 2,892
Submitted By: bryan barnett on Mar 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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BETA PHOTO: Smear on Jan 3, 2009.


From the bottom of the flow climb a short first step and follow a ramp left to the bottom of a steep wall with a pillar. Up the wall to easier slabs and the top. It feels a little more sustained than some other WI3's at Frankenstein. It also seems less traveled which can mean less easy hooking. [Note: In keeping with the consensus, I changed the "headline" grade to "WI3-4". R. Hall]

We did it in one pitch to the trees at the top with 60m ropes. There is a pine tree on a ledge to the left of the final steep section, but there may be no ice.

Can also climb the sustained steep wall to the right of the ramp when conditions are right. This variation is probably WI4.


The big flow to the left of Pegasus. Can be reached by a separate path from the tracks, or by going left from Pegasus.


Tree belay at top. Rappel from trees.

Photos of Smear Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Smear from trestle 2/2/16
BETA PHOTO: Smear from trestle 2/2/16

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From: Gilmanton, NH
Jan 17, 2010

Although this flow can be ascended using WI3 ramps, you have to go out of your way to avoid the difficulties. The cleanest and most obvious line goes at WI4....Something to keep in mind if your signing up for a 3.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jan 18, 2010
rating: WI3+

I'll second that, I signed up to lead this as a WI3 leader my first time on it and was supprised to find out just how steep the direct path was. My belayer the whole time reassuring me that I shouldn't be scared, "'s only a 3
By Misha Tselman
From: New York, NY
Feb 17, 2010
rating: WI3+

+1 on the above. The direct line up the steep sections is more like a WI4. But ramps can be used to weave your way around the steepest sections, making it a solid WI3.
By Jewell
Feb 8, 2013

Cragged here with a group on Sat, 2/2/13. We finished up around dusk, and it seems that someone in the party may have set down a screw and misplaced it packing up in the dark. It's a BD blue screw, if you stumbled upon it 2/3/13 please let me know.

By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Feb 26, 2015
rating: WI4-

Re' rating- I did this a few years ago and agree....4- for sure. (Remember the '72-'73 season (of F.A.) was a SUPER THICK year) The length also surprised me...ran out of rope and had to set up an ice belay, although we might have been using only a 50m rope.
By Russ Keane
Mar 7, 2016

This is a complete classic. So good, long, and interesting. Not your average climb. Has some sort of psychological intensity to it, due to the large imposing nature of the overall ice wall.
By ndchu
Apr 2, 2017

Did this late season (hint: bad idea). The upper headwall was completely granular and certainly wouldn't hold a fall on a screw. If you find yourself in this unenviable position, you can bail out left to the rappel tree following the ramps. The top of the ramps has a rock ledge you can traverse to a bit of adventure-climbing on rotten rock.

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