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This is the route directly left of The Polly-Nator
. Make powerful moves off of underclings to gain the first bulge then finish on a juggy and pumpy headwall. Bring the guns.
Sep 12, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
The fourth bolt, as you're starting into the roof, is a very cruxy clip and may be the crux itself. I found that a big right drop-knee made the difference. It takes a little extra patience on strenuous holds to get into the position, but it's worth it, because skipping the clip is not a good idea.