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Smallest biner
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Feb 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Euphorie M8
looking for a biner to fit the hole in The spike at the bottom of the new Cassin x-dream alpine handle. tried the metolius fs mini and camp nano, no go. Can you guys think about any other that would be smaller ?! ( i know there's an other clipping hole in the handle... That's not want i wanna discuss here ) Theriault
From Quebec, Quebec
Joined Apr 13, 2011
321 points
Feb 11, 2016
The camp Nano or Metolius fs mini would be the smallest full strength biners on the market. Anything smaller wouldn't be fully rated. They make smaller biner rated around 700-800 lbs though. Basically a beefed up Keychain biner. What about tying in with cord? MTCowan
Joined Dec 7, 2015
3 points
Feb 11, 2016
Edelrid 19g

The smallest, lightest carabiner currently on the market.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,461 points
Feb 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: My first belay certification.
The Petzl Ange S is not quite as small, but because it's a keylock wiregate the nose has a very small profile.

outdoorgearlab.com/Carabiner-R...
Dylan B.
Joined Mar 31, 2006
971 points
Feb 11, 2016
No full strength biner that I have ever heard of will do it.

What are you looking for? A way to attach tethers? Something to rest on? I don't think you need all the strength of a biner.

Like the guy above mentioned, you can buy really strong keychain biners at 700 or so lbs. You can also run a loop of cable through the hole and swage it if you have access to a nicopress tool. Webbing or cord may work too.

I think maybe you can widen that hole with a drill or round file until it works.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
From Colorado
Joined Oct 29, 2012
43 points
Feb 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Euphorie M8
I do a lot of harder free solo and i would like to be able to quickly clip in ( with a personal protection sling) in case of emergency. Cord or sling would bot work because i use that spike quite a bit and it would just get mangled . So bottom line is i need something to hold mody weight and not a fall ... Also tried the small petzl Ange. Most of the time its the nose that are to phat. Theriault
From Quebec, Quebec
Joined Apr 13, 2011
321 points
Feb 11, 2016
Theriault wrote:
I do a lot of harder free solo

I know y'all dry toolers like to use that phrase, but that ain't free soloing in my book, not when you got tools (especially w/ the option you are describing) ;) But if that's all you need, why not just use fifi hooks?
reboot
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2006
163 points
Feb 11, 2016
Maillon? Sergey
From Evanston, IL
Joined Dec 16, 2011
0 points
Feb 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Whitney April
^^^ Exactly what I was thinking, a quick link. Sdm1568
From Ca
Joined Aug 7, 2012
140 points
Feb 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Euphorie M8
Quick link will not go in that fast, and i dont wanna leave it there since i use the spike in piolet mode .

At reboot ... What are you talking about ?! You are not at all on the subject

Edit at reboot ( i get it now, good call )
Theriault
From Quebec, Quebec
Joined Apr 13, 2011
321 points
Feb 11, 2016
DMM XSRE is rated for 4kn but is explicitly an accessory biner Joshua Hunt
From clinton, ut
Joined Dec 7, 2013
0 points
Feb 11, 2016
Theriault wrote:
At reboot ... What are you talking about ?! You are not at all on the subject

First of all, there isn't a rule on MP that says my reply has to be on subject...

Second of all, how is my recommendation of fifi hooks not on subject??? A fifi hook is precisely for quick clip in to hang body weight off of.

Read the MIXED AND ICE CLIMBING section of this link (which has a more versatile recommendation) before you kill yourself...
reboot
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2006
163 points
Feb 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Whitney April
Is there any room to file/elongate the hole so you can fit a nano? Sdm1568
From Ca
Joined Aug 7, 2012
140 points
Feb 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out in Digital Delight
+1 to what reboot said. I've used that same system and it works better/ more efficiently than any biner I can think of. DavisMeschke
From Pinedale, WY
Joined Oct 8, 2013
116 points
Feb 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Euphorie M8
You guys mean a fifi hook in the hole? I thought you meant to use it on the ice.... I see where you guys are going now, i like it ! How small are the smallest ones out there? Theriault
From Quebec, Quebec
Joined Apr 13, 2011
321 points
Feb 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Euphorie M8
Sdm1568 wrote:
Is there any room to file/elongate the hole so you can fit a nano?


No, metal is pretty thin already
Theriault
From Quebec, Quebec
Joined Apr 13, 2011
321 points
Feb 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Best climbing pants EVER
I am thinking about having a loop of webbing put through the handle hole and bar tacked. Full-strength and very low profile, so it won't get in the way of my hand. It will probably get beat up in piolet canne mode, so I think it will need to be replaced every season. Luckily I live 4-5 blocks away from a gear repair shop with a bartacker, so I can walk over and have a new loop sewn in for $3. Jon H
From Boulder
Joined Nov 24, 2009
138 points
Feb 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Euphorie M8
Found exactly what i wanted, more to follow haha Theriault
From Quebec, Quebec
Joined Apr 13, 2011
321 points
Feb 23, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Euphorie M8
Not a fully rated biner but perfect for what I want to use it for, plus its a locker haha
Rock Climbing Photo: biner
biner


Rock Climbing Photo: biner2
biner2
Theriault
From Quebec, Quebec
Joined Apr 13, 2011
321 points
Feb 23, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock wars, Red River Gorge
Much better solution below if you have the non-spike version of the x-dreams. 10 minutes with a drill and a steady hand and you can get a full strength cord clip-in point which conveniently doesn't interfere with use of the tools.

Note to anyone who does this: the metal on the inside of the handle is a very soft aluminum. You'll shave it with the side of the drill bit if you aren't careful (I shaved a little when I did it), or you could even drill straight through it. Drill press is probably the best way to go if you have one. I did it with a hand drill, a vise, and some careful guesstimating.







Would be awesome if Cassin had these holes already molded in, but it's pretty easy to DIY. Blah blah disclaimer blah.
shoo
Joined Aug 9, 2010
86 points
Feb 23, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Best climbing pants EVER
Damn that's slick! I know what I'm doing this weekend. Jon H
From Boulder
Joined Nov 24, 2009
138 points
Feb 23, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Euphorie M8
Good call but the point here was to be able to use the spike, also, the handles fall a part at the pinky rest quite often ( 4 handles in two years for me ) and im pretty sure this will void the warrenty Theriault
From Quebec, Quebec
Joined Apr 13, 2011
321 points
Administrator
Feb 23, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Mastigouche
I've used 5/64 coated stainless Aircraft cable with a swage, stays open to clip, pretty strong if swaged properly. Luc
From Montreal, Quebec
Joined Nov 27, 2006
8,841 points
Feb 23, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock wars, Red River Gorge
Theriault wrote:
Good call but the point here was to be able to use the spike, also, the handles fall a part at the pinky rest quite often ( 4 handles in two years for me ) and im pretty sure this will void the warrenty


Are you holding your tools the right way up?


Jon H wrote:
Damn that's slick! I know what I'm doing this weekend.


Not climbing because conditions are terrible? ME TOO!!
shoo
Joined Aug 9, 2010
86 points
Feb 23, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Euphorie M8
Are you holding your tools the right way up?

??
Theriault
From Quebec, Quebec
Joined Apr 13, 2011
321 points
Feb 23, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock wars, Red River Gorge
Theriault wrote:
Are you holding your tools the right way up? ??


It strikes me that the only way I could break the pinky rest multiple times is if I was holding the tool by the pick, and bashing the handle end it as hard as I possibly could into the ice.
shoo
Joined Aug 9, 2010
86 points


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