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Small heel sheos for bouldering
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Jan 20, 2013
Everytime I attempt a heel hook, my shoe performing the move seems to slip off. I'm using a pair of Evolv Predators now. My front is very comfortable, but my heel is absolutely terrible. the entire back part of my shoes stick out occupied by air.

I'm looking for a small heel shoe. Preferably one for bouldering; or at least with a downcurve sole and a sharp point for edging and small footholds.

Any ideas? I was thinking of getting the Scarpa Vapor V or La Sportiva Miura VS. Open to other suggestions as well.
Joined Jan 20, 2013
0 points
Jan 20, 2013
the miura laces have an excellent heel. i'd imagine the velcro's heel is pretty close. tsmartt
Joined Jul 19, 2012
136 points
Jan 20, 2013
evolvs are notorious for a bad heel. if they fit you really well, try the Shaman or Shaman LV- easily the best heel cup Evolv has.

otherwise, Sportiva would be my next choice. Or Scarpa. Bouldering specifically- Solution, Muira VS, Boostic, Feroce.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,461 points
Jan 20, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Romancing the Stone
I think solutions are the way to go for bouldering Jared Garfield
Joined Oct 20, 2011
5 points
Jan 20, 2013
I think this is quite fit specific depending on foot shape.
Solutions are good, though I haven't been as impressed with them as most people seem to be.
You might look into a low volume or womens version of some shoes.
Miura vs is a great shoe and the heel seems to fit quite well for a lot of folks (myself included)

if they fit your heel the arrowhead might be worth checking out, when sized appropriately I think I get some of the best heelhooking out of my anasazi's
Joined Apr 23, 2009
22 points
Jan 21, 2013
Anybody have any experience with Mad Rock Flash? They seem to fit my feet, on words at least. nick.arc
Joined Jan 20, 2013
0 points
Jan 21, 2013
I love the vapor-v for heel hooks. I am not impressed with solutions for heels, mostly due to the yellow rubber which doesn't stick very well.

Mad rocks are for gumbies and sponsored climbers only. (IMVHO).
From Heaven
Joined Oct 2, 2006
427 points
Jan 21, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place t...
nick.arc wrote:
Anybody have any experience with Mad Rock Flash? They seem to fit my feet, on words at least.

Nick, the Flash is likely not what you are looking for, at least based on your first post. It is a flatter shoe as opposed to downturned. If you are interested in looking at a shoe from the Mad Rock line, based on what you mention at the beginning I would check out the Concept . At any rate, you might want to look into lace up's, if you are having trouble getting the heal to stay on, though it sounds like you are not getting your heal all the way into the heal cup (if there is an air pocket below your heal) or the shoe is too big (if there is dead space behind your heal).

Don't worry too much about what people say about one company being the way to go over another, for them it might be true, but your foot is not theirs and the most important thing t=is that the shoe fits your foot properly. If you can avoid mail order as well it will allow you to actually try on the shoes and verify that they fit correctly as opposed to simply buying into the hype that a shoe may receive.
From ABQ, NM
Joined Aug 3, 2008
10,773 points

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