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Hidden Falls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dangler, The T 
End-O-Daze S 
Fir Hang T,TR 
Hidden Falls (main) T,TR 
Kiddie Flow (Far Left) 
Ruff Route, The T 
Small Flow (left) T 
Small Flow (right) T 

Small Flow (right) 

WI4+ M5+

Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 90'
Original: WI4-5 M5+ [details]
FA: Malcolm Daly?
Season: winter
Page Views: 2,513
Submitted By: Brad Brandewie on Jan 26, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Small Flow (R) on 9 Feb. 2014.


This is the flow that forms to the right of the main flow. It is shorter and is sometimes thin.

Eds. there is a rock finish that involes some barndoor moves.


This route can be thin. Bring some short and medium screws.

For the rock finish, consider some cams up to #4 Camalot.

Toprope Protection 

Ice screws. There are some cracks at the top but some of them are rotten. To TR this route, it is best to lead it first. It is possible to climb the rock to the right of the flow (5.6, blocky) with rock gear.

Photos of Small Flow (right) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Rolfson in thinner conditions, better than t...
Brian Rolfson in thinner conditions, better than t...
Rock Climbing Photo:

Comments on Small Flow (right) Add Comment
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By Rob Quinlan
Feb 18, 2002

Returned to Hidden Falls for a crack at the steep mixed line to the right of the main flow. After a couple of warm-up laps on HF main flow, we set up a TR and worked the mixed line. Thin WI5 start leads to transition section of WI3 and then the steep finish on rock. Overhanging vertical crack is crux. Drytool placements on horizontal ledges and in the crack are key to pulling through the slightly overhanging crux. Finish is steep but good holds for hands and feet. Very strenuous but lots of fun. Could be led with shorties in the ice and rock gear for finish. Bring cams to 4" for crux. Solid v-thread at top of transition section (right side of bulge) offers retreat possibilities and at least some solid pro before crux. Has anyone named this short but fun route? Anyone led it to the top? Possible grade: M-5 in Jack Roberts grade scale.
By Malcolm Daly
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 9, 2004

I led this line in the late '80s or early '90s. I didn't have any rock gear, so a stubby went in to the top of the skinny ice pillar (it was 10" wide or so and dead-ended when the rock goes overhanging), then I tied off the little stick that grows out of the overhanging wall and went for it. It wasn't too bad, because at the top, I was able to back-step to the hanging curtain when pulling on to the ledge.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 1, 2004

Today, due to less ice, there are 2 starts, both fun. The L line felt WI6, thin. The R felt WI5-, great hooks. Not enough ice to pro for cluckers like me. Can be TR'ed from the top off trees at 90ft. Rock finish in the crack/dihedral felt awkward & muscular M6+ (similar to Tic Tac, Jesus Christ Built My Finger Crack, Secret Probation (thin conditions), Get a File. There is a bit of ice between the main flow & these R flows that looks hard.
By RalphE
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 3, 2010

Cimbed some verglass when formed on the rightish side of this wall then to the top via a short chimney and flake on the left side of the slightly overhanging dihedral, circa 1995. Somewhere there's a shot of Kevin Cooper climbing it in an Alpinist magazine.
By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Feb 19, 2013
rating: WI4 M5+

Best conditions we have climbed this line in quite a few years, WI4+ M5+, a few 17cm screws (possible stubbies depending on the year), rock gear from Metolius #2 - BD #3, great conditions now.

Do not take this lightly, personally rode the hanging lower curtain 20 feet to the ground in 2006.

Rock Climbing Photo: Hidden Falls (right mixed line), 2/17/2013.
Hidden Falls (right mixed line), 2/17/2013.
By Todd Kube
Dec 7, 2015

Paul Crowder on fat, conditions on 12/05/15. Crap photo. Lots of water coming out of alcove, dry above.

Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Crowder on the wet nose of the column.
Paul Crowder on the wet nose of the column.
By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Dec 14, 2015
rating: WI4 M5+

Rock Climbing Photo: Hidden Falls - Right.
Hidden Falls - Right.

Conditions are fat 12/13/2015, we set a high V-thread. Maybe it will last the season.
By tk1085
Jan 5, 2016

Climbed this today. Felt maybe wi4. There was a small constriction at the top of the ice. So I left a sling rap rings today for people to rap down a touch easier. Fun doing laps. If you want to climb all the way up, I would bring some rock gear for an anchor. I used a red c4 blue and yellow Alien. Lots of water running. Tk
By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Feb 16, 2016
rating: WI4 M5+

We added a 20 foot section of rope from the tree all the way back to the edge of the route with a steel ring. When you top out you can just clip and not make the last move if preferred. There is Zero rope drag now.

We fixed this a few years ago, but apparently it must have not been clear it was a fixed rappel station.

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