Smack the Cold Booty
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.6 from 27 votes
Type: | Sport, TR |
FA: | Alvino Pon, 1993. |
Page Views: | 3,371 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Darin Lang on Jun 30, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Left of Shaking the Pope's Hand you will see an obvious 4 foot roof, which gets much bigger as you move down the crag. This route goes straight up the right side of the roof, right at the point where it forms a dihedral above (yes, I know this is kind of a lame description, but it's clear when you're there).
A bouldery start leads to the first bolt (10+/11- unless you use the cheater's start on a boulder), then it is 5.8 past two more bolts to the roof and a no-hands rest. Hardmen/women will just fire up and clip the next bolt mid-crux. Softies will place a green Alien in a flake above the roof first. Solve the strange crux sequence to surmount the roof, then go up on much easier ground past one more bolt to the chain anchor. This is a fun route.
A bouldery start leads to the first bolt (10+/11- unless you use the cheater's start on a boulder), then it is 5.8 past two more bolts to the roof and a no-hands rest. Hardmen/women will just fire up and clip the next bolt mid-crux. Softies will place a green Alien in a flake above the roof first. Solve the strange crux sequence to surmount the roof, then go up on much easier ground past one more bolt to the chain anchor. This is a fun route.
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