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Southeast Corner
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A Touch Too Much T,S 
Backstage Pass T 
Bee Sting Corner T 
Captain Trivia T 
Cardon's Rib T 
Don't Think Twice T 
Dufty's Popoff T 
H&H T 
Hero Pendulum T 
Kauffman-Cardon T 
Ladybug T,S 
Lost and Found T 
M&M T 
R&R T 
Rear Entry T,S 
S&M S 
Skylab T 
Skyline Traverse T 
T&T T 
Tomato That Ate Cleveland, The T 
Touch and Go T,S 
Trouble Ahead, Trouble Behind T 
Worrell's Thicket T 

S&M 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Cecil
Page Views: 832
Submitted By: Andy Weinmann on Oct 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Fun, face climbing on small edges. A few cruxy sections at 5.8 throughout.

Start by climbing R&R's first pitch. From R&R's cold shuts, follow the line of bolts straight up the face. You'll pass a small overhang and then work up the face past left-leaning cracks.

At the end of the face climbing you'll top out on the Kauffman-Cardon Ledge next to a pine tree (the face directly above you is 5.12R). Move right on the ledge to the final corner of R&R. Pull the short corner up to another large ledge. Either continue directly up to the top (careful of loose rock!) or move left on the ledge to a set of cold shuts.

Location 

Start at the top of R&R's first pitch at the cold shuts.

You can either top out onto Lower Broadway Ledge or rap to the ground with 2 60m ropes from the shuts on the ledge just below Lower Broadway Ledge. One 60m rope WILL NOT reach the start of the route (and the other shuts) from these upper shuts. A 70m rope will reach the lower shuts.

Alternatively you can top out on Lower Broadway and rap down on the Bee Sting Corner rap line.

Protection 

Bolts (6 or 7?) plus some optional gear placements. Optional cold shut anchor at the top.

You may want a long sling for the tree on the ledge near the top.


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By Frogmen83
Oct 20, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a really good 5.8 route that I think is a little bit more spicy than Don't Think Twice. The bolts appear just when you start to wish for one. I started on the large block just 30 feet up Worrels Thicket. When you get to the Kauffman ledge near the top go right up the corner.

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