REI Community
Little Horse Mesa
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A-Frame, The T 
Arrowhead, The T 
Bad Moon Rising T 
Bat Dog T 
Birthday Crack T 
Bush Doctor T 
Bush Pilot T 
Carpa Manana T 
Crack From Hell, The T 
Crack Head T,TR 
Crazy Cams T,TR 
Dog Day T,TR 
Double D Left T 
DoubleD Right T 
Driven to Climbs T 
Duke in a Bucket T 
Endless Summer T,TR 
Get Your Mojo Running T 
Gift of Aliens T 
Great Roof Left T,TR 
Great Roof Right T 
Jam Your Blues Away T,TR 
Lackawanna T 
March Madness T 
Miami Vice T 
Motengator T 
Optimator, The T 
Oral Sex in the Whitehouse T 
Pete's Downclimb T 
Pocket Rocket, The T 
Primodelic T 
Raised by Wolves T 
Resurrection Link Up T 
Right on Raton T 
S&M Crack T 
Salt Mother T,TR 
Sangre Verde S,TR 
Saphire Crack T 
Soma Holiday T 
Son of Motengator T 
Spoticus T 
Sweet and Sour T 
Taos Lightning T,TR 
Type O T,S 
Up Your Arete T,TR 
Wounded Knee T 
Yo Mamma T 

S&M Crack 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Stewart Green and Martha Morris
Page Views: 1,946
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Oct 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jason Halladay preparing to do business with the o...


S&M Crack is one of three routes at Sugarite dubbed as "megaclassics" by Dennis Jackson in his "Rock Climbing New Mexico" book. At 75 feet in length it is also the longest route at Sugarite.
Start off some blocks at the base following some broken flakes and finger crack from protection up to a large roof/bulge. Pull up and around the roof via some committing laybacking to the hand crack above.
If you're pumped like I was, a large ledge just off to the left about half way up the route offers a very good rest before you fire up the upper half.
Follow the overhanging hand crack with small edges for feet on the face for another 25 feet to the top. Watch for some loose rocks on top.


Far right side of the wall. The long crack is obvious.


BD cams... Doubles of .3, .75, 1, 2. Singles of .4, .5, 3. Two-bolt anchor at the top just to the left of this crack serves as a rappel anchor too.

Photos of S&M Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The obvious crack in the center of the photo is S&...
BETA PHOTO: The obvious crack in the center of the photo is S&...

Comments on S&M Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By dennis jackson
Mar 2, 2009

FA Stewart Green and Martha Morris
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 2, 2009

Ah, and now the name makes sense. Thanks Dennis.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About