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Byron Glacier Wall
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Slurm 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pat Rinehart, Jason Moncrieff
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 58
Submitted By: Nick Weicht on Jun 20, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Slurm climbs the slab face, trending right an the ...

Description 

Slurm starts on the lowest bolt on the cliff and climbs the slab past three hangers to a small ledge. Trend up and right along a smooth, sloping ramp up to the top of the rock for a one bolt anchor or build and anchor on alders. You can also use the top section and anchor of Dynamo Hum as an alternate finish because the two routes cross each other.


Edit from the Admin "The climbing on this route is enjoyable however some of the following things. Every single bolt except the last one has been compromised. THERE IS NO ANCHOR. You can use the anchor on the 5.11 however it was damaged in rock fall and it consists of a single chain on a bent bolt, the other bolt is sheared off. You can take it too the top and belay from alders and a sitting stance."

Keep an eye on comments to see what current route conditions look like due to the nature of this route and area.

Location 

After the avalanche scramble up the large scree drainage to the left of the main wall. Slurm is located right of the small waterfall and drainage on a smooth slab face.

Protection 

7 usable bolts, NO ANCHOR.


Photos of Slurm Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Slurm climbs the slab face at the top of the scree...
Slurm climbs the slab face at the top of the scree...

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By Nick Crews
From: Colorado Springs
May 22, 2015

The hangar of the fourth bolt was smashed by rockfall(?) and is smushed up against the face, quasi-usable. Could be replaced. Luckily in a very easy section so you can just run it out. Also, the fifth bolt is bent by rockfall so it starts to look like a candy cane. Maybe usable? We avoided it and crossed over to Dynamo Hum.
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jun 24, 2017

The climbing on this route is enjoyable however some of the following things. Every single bolt except the last one has been compromised. THERE IS NO ANCHOR. You can use the anchor on the 5.11 however it was damaged in rock fall and it consists of a single chain on a bent bolt, the other bolt is sheared off. You can take it too the top and belay from alders and a sitting stance.

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