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The Cleo Amphitheater
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L to R R to L Alpha
+ULFBERHT+ T,TR 
Barndoor T,TR 
Better When Dry T,TR 
Between the Queens TR 
Big Roof TR 
Colostomy T,TR 
Curved Wall T,TR 
Hang Dog T 
Jack of Spades T,TR 
King's Throne T,TR 
King's Valet, The T,TR 
Mickey Mouse T,TR 
Minnie Mouse T,TR 
Minnie Mum T,TR 
Missing Link T 
Pinko T,TR 
Plank, The TR 
Queen's Face T,TR 
Queen's Throne T,TR 
Queens Clam, The T 
Sluggo TR 
Throne Room T,TR 
Tilted Tower T,TR 
Unnamed 5.3 T,TR 
Unnamed 5.3 Corner T,TR 

Sluggo 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FTR: Erol Altay FL: Eggert
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 252
Submitted By: Erol Altay on Jul 25, 2016

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Placing gear after the crux.

Description 

The line goes up right of Barn Door from the ground. The moves directly up the thin crack through the mid section require a couple of open handed slaps and a grab in the crack on the left corner. Pinch a right hand divot and pop for the big ledge then make a not insignificant mantel to stand up and cop a rest. After this the top is a surprising moderate thin layback flake and move to catch the top. Be sure to finish the last mantel move to work your shoulders completely.

Location 

The thin crack and face above directly right of Barn Door. Using the left corner keeps the difficulty consistent. The line could probably go without the corner and would be about 12a for one move.

Protection 

Top rope.


Photos of Sluggo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Camille styling into position to pull the crux.
Camille styling into position to pull the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Erol catching the divot.
Erol catching the divot.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climb the face.
BETA PHOTO: Climb the face.

Comments on Sluggo Add Comment
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By Erol Altay
Jul 23, 2016

This goes along the rope line shown in the beta photo. The lower part uses the crack to the right of the rope and side pulls on the left (corner right of "Barn Door"). The upper part is easier than it looks, but the mantel at the top makes up for it. I used the incut on the corner which is shared with "Barn Door", which makes it overall about 10c/d. Hard to say about getting rid of the shared hold. It was 86F today with 90% RH and started raining as we left. So it may be different when not greasy. I call this route "SLUGGO".
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

Beware blowing the crux sequence or especially just above it on lead will still deposit you on the ledge, see photo. Nice addition by Erol.

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