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Slow Train Coming 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jimmy Ratzlaff and Steve Hadik
Fixed Hardware: 8 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,676
Submitted By: Craig Quincy on Dec 14, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Eldorado Canyon. Slow Train Coming. Isaac Therneau...

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  • Description 

    An excellent bolted slab climb in a fantastic location and with a name from a Bob Dylan song to boot!

    Surprisingly this route does not receive as much flack as Genius Loci for being so close to a classic trad route. Perhaps it makes people feel silly to rail against a Slow Train that's coming. Anyway, the climbing is devious and requires wicked foot work on tiny holds. This is a good route to do if you're coming down from the Upper Ramp with time on your hands. It could also be used as an alternative start to the Naked Edge. (But only after you've done the real first pitch.)

    After finding your way to the first pitch of the Edge, climb down a few feet and head right around the corner. It's a little airy over there which adds to the excitement. Then climb up and left passing the 2nd and 3rd bolts and the crux of the climb. Hang in there on small holds and think positive thoughts about your footwork. If your toes are going numb, you're probably doing something right. This route ends at the same bolted anchor as pitch one of the Edge. Eight bolts total, no gear necessary on this pitch.


    10 QDs (plus standard Eldo rack to get up there).

    Comments on Slow Train Coming Add Comment
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    By Matt Juth
    From: Evergreen
    Dec 21, 2004
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Beautiful face climbing! A little spicy on the easier rock on the second half of the pitch, but safe and enjoyable throughout.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 9, 2009
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Thin is in!
    The 'Slow Train' that is coming is the forearm pump if you are not wearing good edging shoes. Luckily it gets easier as you head up. I got rail-roaded today & finished with nothing left.
    By George K. Watson
    From: Nederland, CO
    Jul 5, 2010

    I did this years ago with Derek Hersey and Jon Grayson and none of us thought it was harder than 10+ (c/d). A small TCU can be used under a little overlap to make it a bit less 'spicy'. It's a little heretical being this close to P1 of the NE, but the climbing is nice.
    By Moritz B.
    Jun 1, 2015
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    I´m not too sure about the bolt quality on this one. Rusty and old, the bolts aren´t confidence inspiring.
    By Lisa Montgomery
    From: Golden, CO
    May 23, 2016

    Route update: the 8 old lead bolts were replaced with 1/2" stainless 5-piece bolts. Per the approved ACE application, bolt 3 was moved slightly left and bolt 6 was moved down.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Old 3/8" inch bolt with Leper hanger replaced...
    Old 3/8" inch bolt with Leper hanger replaced with 1/2" 5-piece bolt.

    Link to application

    Thanks, ACE, for supplying the hardware. Consider donating at: Donate to ACE.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    May 23, 2016

    Nice rebolting job, Lisa. Actually, that's not a Leeper hanger but an HME (Hughston Mountain Equipment) hanger. You can identify it versus a Leeper by the large carabiner hole. HME hangers are very strong.
    By Japhy Dhungana
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Sep 29, 2016
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Thanks for the rebolting job - this is an AWESOME route that deserves a lot more attention!

    Very well protected throughout (not too spicy at all), and all you need are draws (might want long runners on the 1st and 2nd bolt). The crux is distinctly at the 3rd bolt, but the climbing is fun and engaging throughout with crisp edges on bullet clean rock.

    If you've already done that first pitch of the Edge a dozen times, get on this - a fantastic panel of rock that is a completely different style of climbing than the Naked Edge. Also, not much slab climbing on this one, more thin, positive edging... very enjoyable.

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