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Slow Speed Chase 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Nutting/Wolfe 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 859
Submitted By: MisterE Wolfe on Aug 23, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Morgan finishing up the third pitch on the FA of &...

Description 

P1 (5.10b) MIXED-100': Climb past a bolt to a roof, then place an optional .75". Step left and place a 2" piece under the first roof. Move left past the first corner, then clip a bolt above. Move left again and then right onto a slab. Climb the sustained, bolted slab to a ramp and a final layback past a fixed draw to the anchors.
P2 (5.7) MIXED-175': Continue up easier mixed terrain, passing a set of rappel rings. A final bolted face (crux) delivers you to anchors.
P3 (5.9) MIXED-70': Traverse left and up to a gear-protected dihedral, capped by a small bulge and a bolt.

Location 

Leftmost route. Look for a ramp with a bolt at 15'.

Protection 

14 runners with a couple long ones, singles to 3.5".

4 rappels with a 70-meter rope.


Photos of Slow Speed Chase Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The view does not suck here, nor the climbing.
The view does not suck here, nor the climbing.
Rock Climbing Photo: Morgan on the first ascent of Slow-speed Chase. Th...
Morgan on the first ascent of Slow-speed Chase. Th...

Comments on Slow Speed Chase Add Comment
Show which comments
By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Aug 24, 2015

Super fun climbing! Really cool features on this one.
By Morgan Nutting
From: Bishop, CA
Sep 2, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Pitch 2 is meh, but it helps to link some short but fun cracks at the top. Still a little dirty, hopefully it cleans up with time.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Sep 30, 2015

P1 is the best pitch on the buttress, 3.5 stars. Nice job and thanks for a great pitch in a fun area.
By rickziegler Ziegler
Feb 10, 2016

1st pitch is money! Good moves and good variety of styles.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
May 23, 2016

Regarding pitch 1 only, I didn't move left around the corner at the bulge for the more oblique/easier approach. It was, ah, how do you say, direct? Direttisimo? My tunnel vision added some oomph but it was sorta fun this way with some stemming and sloper sidepull mojo. The patina of the rock is very interesting, Mr. Wolfe was kind of enough to explain that it was probably a deposit of limestone seeping onto and covering the rock. It takes a minute to get used to this change in texture, but it's not too slick as of yet.
By Adam Wills
From: Bishop, Ca
Jun 11, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Really fun climbing! Well protected.. would definitely do it again..

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