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Slot Machine 

Slot Machine 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 11'
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 46
Submitted By: Dylan Randall on Sep 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Sticking the slot on 'Slot Machine' at McKenzie Po...

Description 

Start standing with left hand on high left-facing flake on the left side of the boulder. Pull up to the crimp slot, then boost for the top.

Location 

Directly left of Ian's Favorite Problem

Protection 

2 or more pads.


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By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Sep 4, 2013
rating: V6 7A

This line feels near impossible for me and I did not enjoy the movement (super awkward start). Just pulling off the left hand and getting your foot on to do the move alone feels like V5+ let alone the rest of the problem (lots of rubber wasted on it). Both "Ian's Favorite Problem" and the V6 to the right of it felt much easier. Also I heard the "slot" pocket/crimp was drilled (it sort of looks like it was). If that is the case this line should be avoided for that reason alone.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 2, 2013
rating: V6- 7A

I would say that this line is more low percentage than hard. I found pulling off the ground fairly easy, but the accuracy needed to stick the slot can be a little frustrating. Once you do stick the slot, the moves remain challenging, but well within the grade.

It's definitely a much different problem than 'IF' and 'Committed'. I did 'IF' in two tries and 'Committed' in a few more, but they are just straight forward pulling. This one is a little bit more technique and core specific. The low percentage nature of the climb makes it somewhat difficult to grade, but low end v6 is probably accurate.

I'd be happy to share some beta. (I uploaded a photo that shows me sticking the slot)
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Nov 23, 2013
rating: V6 7A

Christian,

Your foot placement is definitely different than mine. I see you are using a backstep where as I was frog-legged with my left foot where your right is and right foot on the lower right foothold. I'll try your beta next time.

I'd still like to know whether the pocket was drilled or not and if so, why.

Thanks for the share....

-Colin
By MaxMonn
From: Providence, RI
Apr 29, 2014

Colin,

From what I know, the slot was in fact drilled (back in the day). It was not done maliciously, though it does make the problem "unnatural". I was told that it was drilled so that there was something else to climb, no more profound reason than that.

Also of note, the start hold use to be MUCH bigger. before it broke the problem went at v6, not sure about now. There is also a sit start which as of last summer had not gone post-break.

-Max

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