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Slot Machine 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,144
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Apr 16, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Slot Machine

Description 

Scramble up to the alcove where Water Cracks (5.8) begins. Interesting and off-balance moves take you into the slot on the right. Climb the slot up to the top of the pinnacle on the right to find the first chain anchor for Tree Corner (5.8). This line entails a wide mix of climbing: face, on knobs and pockets, offwidth, stemming and lieback. This route is a little dirty and will result in sand and small rocks falling on your belayer. Slot Machine is easy for the grade, perhaps 5.7. It is well-enough bolted but you can place a couple #5 Camelots in the run-out sections, maybe even a #4. Rappel to descend or continue up Tree Corner.

Location 

At the left end of VD wall, in an alcove to the right of the short slab.

Protection 

6 bolts, bolted chain anchor


Photos of Slot Machine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Madaline on Slot Machine
Madaline on Slot Machine
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd bolt on Slot Machine.
BETA PHOTO: 2nd bolt on Slot Machine.
Rock Climbing Photo: The anchors at the top of slot machine.
BETA PHOTO: The anchors at the top of slot machine.
Rock Climbing Photo: Owen follows on Slot Machine - mid 80's (c) Chris ...
Owen follows on Slot Machine - mid 80's (c) Chris ...
Rock Climbing Photo: James in the lieback.
James in the lieback.

Comments on Slot Machine Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jun 26, 2011

I used a BD #4 and #3 at the top inbetween the last bolt and the anchors. I also did a wierd move where I twisted around and had my whole left side in the slot and facing away from the wall doing some chimney/off width moves.
By Daniel Wade
From: Oakland, CA.
Jul 17, 2012

Yeah I climbed it mostly like an offwidth/chimney on lead. Perhaps I was too nervous to commit to the lieback. My girlfriend followed it much more gracefully as a lieback. Also used a #4 between the last bolt and the anchor.
By NeilSutherlandME
Jun 17, 2013

Also didn't want to commit to the lieback, especially up high. Stuck mainly with chimney/stemming technique.

The last ~30' to the anchors has only 2 bolts (bolts #5 and 6), so expect a bit of runout. I would've liked a piece in between 5 and 6, and then between 6 and the anchor. The last move of the climb is a mantel to gain the anchor ledge. If you pitched off here, you'd probably hit the ledge below at bolt #6. PG-13 rating overall, would probably be too much for a newer 5.8-5.9 leader.
By Petr
Mar 17, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This one felt pretty easy after doing the 2 slab routes on the left. Placed a #2 and #4, you wouldn't really need them if the bolts weren't sketchy!
The lieback was super positive and really the best part of the climb. Super fun.
Did the second pitch above that, which felt much harder (5.8)
But had 4 bolts (all old hangers)
By Aaron covington
From: Pinon hills, ca
Apr 14, 2015

Trad gear not necessary.

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