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Slot Machine  

Hueco: V2+ Font: 5+

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V2+ Font: 5+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 115
Submitted By: Jake Perry on Aug 30, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Slot Machine V2 shown in green, Touchdown Giants V...

Description 

A sweet problem requiring some serious precision.

Start standing with right hand on the obvious chalked pinch/crimp and left hand on one of several options. The old left start hold broke, leaving a poor undercling hold. Figure out some foot trickery to enable you to pull off the ground and stand up left hand into the slot (crux). Match the slot and make a big move up and right to a juggy gaston on the lip, match and top out.

Location 

Start on crimps to the right "Touchdown Giants." Look for the obvious slot on the right side of the horizontal crack and this climbs right beneath that slot.

Protection 

1 pad is fine, flat landing.


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By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Aug 30, 2016

This line is really fun. What looks like the old left hand appears to have broken. I had to use a small two finger crimp instead. The foot beta I used is kinda tricky. The move to the lip is really awesome too.

It's possible to traverse into the top of this from Touchdown Giants, which makes Touchdown Giants better and about V1/2 (and fun!). You can also do the other way (traverse left into touchdown giants) which would maybe be V3- but not as good.

I was unsure of the grade on this one so let me know what you guys think, this one's really worth doing!
By Graham O.
Sep 10, 2016
rating: V2 5+

I got on this recently. Cool little problem, certainly a worthwhile one-move wonder. This boulder certainly has a reputation for great moderate crimpy problems!

Felt about the same as E-Z Chese grade-wise.

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