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The Amphitheater
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P.S. I'm Blonde T,S 
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SE Face aka Southeast Arete (First Pinnacle) T 
Second Pinnacle East Face T 
Second Pinnacle South Face T 
Shortcut T 
Siberian North Face T,S 
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] T 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) TR 
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) T,TR 
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) T 
Standard Inside East Face T,TR 
T-Zero West Face aka Finger Crack T,TR 
Tyrolean Traverse TR 
West Bench Dihedral T,TR 
West Face (of T-Zero) T,TR 

Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 3,650
Submitted By: Mike Sofranko on Sep 4, 2001  with updates from Eric Waag

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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BETA PHOTO: 2nd Pinnacle East Face R->L: West Bench Dihedra...

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  • Description 

    From the inside of the Amphitheatre, there is an obvious roof and slot on the wall below the West Bench.

    Climb up to the slot, get into it, and grunt your way up a few moves until you can exit onto the face. Climb the face more or less straight up to a steep final headwall. Climb the obvious crux finger crack for a few moves to the West Bench.

    Rossiter calls this route, Slot.



    Wasp Warning! 

    Per Sam W: for those sensitive, there are wasps on this route.

    Photos of Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Inset, 5.4.
    BETA PHOTO: The Inset, 5.4.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Getting into the slot.
    Getting into the slot.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Slot route, out on the face.
    BETA PHOTO: Slot route, out on the face.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling out of the slot onto the face.
    BETA PHOTO: Pulling out of the slot onto the face.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Obligatory butt shot.  Thor on Slot.
    Obligatory butt shot. Thor on Slot.

    Comments on Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Oct 7, 2002
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    You don't have to climb and thrutch through the slot. Grab the edge and climb gracefully out on positive hands and feet until the face holds appear on your left.
    By Bryson Slothower
    Jun 28, 2003

    The description here seems to be for "Slot", Direct West Bench is five feet right of that route and the crux is a left-angling crack about 25 feet off the deck.
    By Scott Edlin
    From: boulder, co
    May 2, 2006
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    The description here is of Rossiter's "Slot". Both of the pictures posted here are NOT of "Slot" and ARE of "Direct West Bench".
    By Daniel Crescenzo
    Jul 30, 2007

    Great spot for teaching folks the ropes.
    By Scott McMahon
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 23, 2009
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Yep, these pics are not the slot. Body width chimney.
    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 23, 2013
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Fun route, a good (if awkward) lead to learn on. Good gear pushing through the crux slot and then good, but sometimes spaced over easy ground, gear to the top. The final fingercrack is also quite a treat! If you're just starting out, get on this route!
    By Andres Fernandez
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Mar 12, 2016
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Great route. A good solid 5.6 for the slot part, which seems about 1/2 the route.

    When you get to the top 3rd of the route on the final face, I considered some moves 5.7. You can go further right and do the 5.5/5.6 variation.

    Good protection for 1st half. More inexperienced leaders for face climbing might find it harder to place protection.
    By Matt Bentley
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 7, 2017
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    This a great route with nice diversity. The slot has some nice features and holds, and the chimney changes to some fat pinches, then some typical Flatirons slabby stuff near the top. It seems like a 5.6+ or 5.7 to me, but that's mostly based on the slabby moves toward the top.

    A personal favorite hold was the nice finger pocket up on the slabby part around the last 1/3rd of the route!

    There's a great TR point at the top of the route (accessible from the climbing express trail that wraps around the West of the Amphitheatre): a GIANT eyebolt, and a huge boulder to wrap with sling or cord. I dig redundancy, so I used both the single eyebolt and a cordelette wrapped around the boulder on top, equalized, and extended over the edge to eliminate rope drag.

    This is the best moderate route that I've done in the Amphitheatre area. I'll definitely be coming back.
    By Sam W
    Aug 25, 2017

    WASP WARNING! I was here this morning (8/25/17) and didn't notice the foot placement at about the belayer's eye level is home to a wasp nest (they live inside a thin, vertical crack). I got stung on the ankle, but thanks to a fast belayer, I got down quickly and then lowered from above to retrieve the one nut I had placed. The wasps are actually not too bad so long as you keep a few feet away from their nest, but you should know where the nest is.

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