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Sloppy Seconds 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 220', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R [details]
FA: Brain Merrill and Rick Vermeil
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 167
Submitted By: Rick Vermeil on Aug 19, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Beta.

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Description 

Wait for Bob and Tom on Full Metal Jacket for long enough that you are trying to decide between falling asleep on the ledge or climbing choss. I recommend you take a nap instead, but if you are really feeling adventurous like Brian was, start in a 5.5 wide chimney then scramble up and left to a ledge. Savor the nice hand/fist crack that ends all too soon in a flake. Move up and right from the flake, and climb the unavoidable large, loose blocks that could easily pull out and kill your belayer and/or cut your rope. This adds a little spice. Brian had some big cajones for forging on deeper into the choss where most people would just bail on this shit show. Continue past the death blocks, and jam a 4-5" offwidth crack to a belay ledge where you can sling a large block. Climb straight up the left side of the belay ledge on a nice finger crack. This continues up for about 20 feet. Place pro, then traverse straight left on a unprotected lichen covered slab towards a large flake while avoiding shitting yourself. We were fortunate enough to get a top rope tossed down from above, but you probably won't be so lucky. You might get a nut in the crack that you are hand traversing on, but consider it "mental pro". Lieback the strenuous flake (crux) up to ledge two. We topped out on the last pitch of Manic Laughter which was much better than this route.

This route has been included for historical purposes to document the FFA, but I do not recommend you follow in the footsteps of the legendary Brian Merrill.

Location 

This starts off ledge one on the East Buttress about 30 feet right of Full Metal Jacket in somewhat of a chimney. Look for a decent looking crack that will lure you in to doing this crappy route.

Protection 

A standard alpine rack to 4" including trundling gear and a hand drill to put in a bolt or two.


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