|Original:||Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]|
|Season:||whenever it is crisp out|
|Submitted By:||STICKY NICK on Mar 26, 2009|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Sloper City||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Jan 3, 2013
Originally, this problem was done on the flat edge/undercling one move back from the incut crimpers. I began working it this way and immediately started bringing huge blocks down on me. I believe that someone will eventually have the entire 'starting hold' in there lap.
I feel starting matched on the incut crimpers makes this a 4-star problem, and doesn't lower the grade. The rock quality for 95% of this problem is impeccable, and its my opinion that not only does the choss start severely diminish's the quality of this problem, it's also very contrived.
Also, since I was asked I'll clarify; if you stay on the high rail all the way till the end its a different problem (V5ish?). Great find and great FA Sticky.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jan 3, 2013
This is funny because I finally got around to trying this a couple of weeks ago, and my first thought was- Why is this cool climb being started buried in a hole on a chossy, loose jug surrounded by spiderwebs and rodent feces instead of simply starting two or three feet to the left on the obvious, solid crimp rail?
This line climbs well and the rock is quite good for the most part. I found the finishing move to the jug harder than I thought it would be!
However, I still don't get why one would take an obvious and beautiful, natural line and make it highly contrived by forcing a completely unnecessary drop down to the lower rail.
I understand the desire to create hard variations for the challenge and creativity they present. But, in this case, the natural line is the v6-ish line that uses the higher rail. Dropping down to the lower rail increases the difficulty but, in my opinion, diminishes the quality.
Still, props for the FA. Excellent rock and movement. Great find.