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Camp Bird Road
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Shattered Dreams 
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Slip Sliding Away T 
Slippery When Wet T 
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Slippery When Wet 


Type:  Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, Grade II
Original: WI4 [details]
FA: Kevin Donald & Duncan Ferguson, ~'75
Season: winter
Page Views: 4,827
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 13, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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At the anchor on top of the route. Climber climbin...

Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>>


This is a very fun route uphill from Skylight. This was shown in the ice video, On Ice.

P1. The 1st pitch goes up to a small cave, WI3.

P2. Break out of cave and left (crux), and fire up beautiful groove/dihedral to the top, ~WI4.

Rappel 50m. Per doligo: a 60m rope comfortably gets you all the way to the tree from the road.


Ice screws and a lack of brains.

Photos of Slippery When Wet Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Slippery When Wet on Feb 1,2009. Photo by Dan Dalt...
Slippery When Wet on Feb 1,2009. Photo by Dan Dalt...
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying not to slip.
Trying not to slip.
Rock Climbing Photo: Myself leading the crux on Slippery When Wet, 1/11...
Myself leading the crux on Slippery When Wet, 1/11...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the crux. Feb. 02, 2007.
Leading the crux. Feb. 02, 2007.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux.
At the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: 2/97.
Rock Climbing Photo: 2/97, Slippery When Wet.
2/97, Slippery When Wet.

Comments on Slippery When Wet Add Comment
Show which comments
By kevin donald
Nov 15, 2004

I believe the first ascent of this fine little climb was around 1975 by Kevin Donald and Duncan Ferguson while looking for routes to climb with International Alpine School students. However Rusty Bailley (sp) was living in Montrose at the time and he had an appetite for ice as well, so who knows?
By e Dixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Jul 9, 2011

Seems easier to just do this as one long pitch.
By doligo
Feb 9, 2012

60m rope comfortably gets you all the way to the tree from the road. One double rope rappel or two single ones (there is an intermediate above the first ice bulge) will get you down.
By Ryan Bracci
From: San Juan Capistrano, CA
Dec 30, 2015
rating: WI4-

This can also be done in 3 pitches. If you break up the bottom into two pitches, you can continue from the second anchors at the ledge up the gully to a tree. There are two trees at the top with rap rings. The 3rd pitch is thin in spots (at least in late December 2015), but screws can be placed in good spots. I was told there was a spot for a cam or nut on this pitch, but I never saw any place for them.
By Kyle Tarry
From: Portland, OR
Mar 6, 2017
rating: WI4

Climbed this route on 3/1/2017. First pitch went from the road up the low angle ice to the base of the first steep section in the slot (maybe ~20-30m), second pitch all the way to the top (~40m). With some thinner ice, we found the crux to be the chimney in the middle of the route, not the steeper first section, which was pretty straightforward. In fatter conditions, the chimney may not be too bad.

A pair of 60m ropes gets you from the rap rings all the way to the road.

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