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Memorial Route (aka Caudill Queen King Route *original name*) S 
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Scenic Traction T 
Slippery Slope T,S 

Slippery Slope 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 9 pitches, 800', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ?
Season: Spring or Fall, hot in the summer.
Page Views: 2,168
Submitted By: Pawel Szafruga on Feb 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: About 2/3 of the way up.


Friction slab at its best. The crux sections are bolted very well but a light rack to 1 inch helps in between. Poor pro and few bolts lead to some interesting run-outs on a couple of the easy pitches. Overall a phenomenal route.


Starts a couple hundred feet to the left of Regular Route. Hike down is easiest. All anchors are bolted, but if you must rap then Memorial route is the preferred way down.


Light rack to 1 inch, maybe a 2 inch piece if it is lucky.

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By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Jun 11, 2008

First ascent, I believe, by Jason Cronk, Bob Gentry and Todd Chavez, in 2001.
Great climb. More info, and a topo (the route line is right, but the bolt locations are not exactly correct), here:
By Nick Dolecek
From: Denver, Colorado
Jul 11, 2009

Excellent Route!!! The best route on the formation hands down. It isn't that run-out, and the crux pitches are just right to keep things interesting but enjoyable. The slab climbing movement on this route is well worth the trip. We took a single set from green C3 through #2 Camelot and were happy. All bolts are now 3/8 and three bolt belays...amazing!
By jhump
Oct 3, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fine climbing, but the difficulty is somewhat contrived in places. Look closely as you clip those bolts, as you may notice that if you were climbing 15' left or right, you would be on an easy crack or some jugs. Oh well, the moves are good and the climb is fun. Not 10+. The rebolt looks good- the originals are strong as bubble gum these days. B stepped up and led the crux. She is the not a strong slabber and found the crux trivial.
By Cory Harelson
From: Boise, ID
Aug 7, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun route. In particular, pitches 5, 6, &7 featured fun moves on great rock! I made an effort to follow the bolt line and not deviate to the easy jugs and cracks to the side, and I still think this was no harder than 10a.

The description for the start of this route may be a little off. It's only about 40 feet left of the start for the regular route, not a couple hundred.
By Trevor.
From: Boise, ID
May 8, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Warning: I almost pulled off a sizeable loose flake on the first pitch, and it's still sitting up there just waiting to bomb someone. IIRC, it's a few moves above the 3rd bolt, and your belayer is definitely in the potential fallout zone if you were to pull it off. My second would have trundled it but my dog was sleeping at the base. I'd recommend the next party to go up the route tosses the thing off given a safe opportunity, it definitely has the potential to do some serious damage.

Other than that, we found the route to be totally safe for competent slab climbers, with all the difficult climbing being well protected by bolts. For comparison, I thought the 5.6 regular route had more thought provoking runouts than Slippery Slope.
By ImplicitD
Jun 15, 2016

A great climb. This route is more like 5.10b IMO.

Not too runout but not a sport climb. Bolts in all the right spots. Much safer then many of the slab climbs in Tuolumne Meadows at a similar grade.

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