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Slippery Slope 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 700', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Glen Kaplan and James Garrett, September 2007, ooo on pitch 5-7
New Route: Yes
Season: When Dry
Page Views: 1,305
Submitted By: James Garrett on Sep 27, 2007

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He isn't really that tall, and I'm not really that...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

(AKA Girlfriend Route) This route will continue on above it's present high point, however, it already extends the Smoot Brother's excellent Slippery Slab route to make a long slab route addition to Little Cottonwood canyon's Super Slab. All pitches were climbed traditionally from ground up.

Pitch #1-Pitch #4: Climb Slippery Slab and see the Smoot details on that route. 5.9

Pitch #5: Continue straight up from the last pitch belay of Slippery Slab passing several bolts. Some memorable moves, but generally gets you to the better climbing up higher. 5.7, 30m.

Pitch #6: A dirty pitch, but not that bad. Look for bolts you may still have trouble finding. Trend first right, then left through some easy overlaps and eventually hit the two-bolt belay. 5.7, 30m.

Pitch #7: Look for the next bolts. Climb past some bulges on the slab to a belay off to the right where a ledge has been cleared. 5 bolts, 5.7, 30m.

Pitch #8: From the belay, move left to the tree and climb thin slab to the first bolt. Run out, but EZ climbing takes you to another two-bolt belay on a good ledge. 4 bolts 5.7+, 30m.

Pitch #9: The money pitch thus far! Climb the weak groove to the steeper slab. Traverse up and right to small knobs and continue up the slab past easier climbing to a two-bolt belay. Some run out sections, but well protected where the difficulty is concentrated. Have your slab shoes and skills on for this pitch! Exciting climbing of good quality. 9 bolts, 5.10b,R, 50m (This pitch has been Red pointed only once...would like to get other opinions about grade!).

Pitch #10: Hours of cleaning yielded a nice finger crack/dihedral up this next section of the slab. Protects well with small gear and continue following the crack until it traverses left under the roof to a two-bolt belay. Upper exploration revealed exfoliating and deteriorating granite. 5.10, 40m.

Pitch #5-#8?? belay anchors installed by ooo prior to this climbers arrival. Thankyou for the Stainless Steel huge bolts!

Rappelling the route with two ropes recommended, but skipping some of the belays may be possible 10-9-7-5-4-2-ground

Location 

This climb is an extension of the Smoot Brother's Slippery Slab. Together, they provide an excellent long slab route.

Rappel the route with two ropes.

Protection 

QDs, numerous shoulder length runners, assorted small cams to #1 Camalot size.


Photos of Slippery Slope Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Zoom in of Climber trying to figure the Pitch #9 o...
Zoom in of Climber trying to figure the Pitch #9 o...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from Pitch #9 of climber (wearing a white hel...
View from Pitch #9 of climber (wearing a white hel...
Rock Climbing Photo: Slippery Slope Crack Pitch #10 during the FA. The ...
Slippery Slope Crack Pitch #10 during the FA. The ...

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