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Slippery Slab 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 475', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ? Bolted by J & B Smoot 2006
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 133
Submitted By: bsmoot on Sep 27, 2007

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1- Friction up on great rock and chickenheads to a bulge. shuffle left to a belay ledge.(5 bolts)
P2- Climb up and left past a crack to a bolt on the left. Move up (5.9) to the start of a thin crack. Follow this for 40' or so until you can traverse right to a bolt. Climb straight up to a big belay ledge.
P3- Ascend the gently angled slab above past 2 bolts and a pin to a fixed balay.
P4- Continue up the moderate slab to a big tree on the right or a newly installed fixed belay above. Rap route or continue up Slippery Slope.

Location 

Begin 30' left from the lowest point of the slab.

Protection 

Small rack to a #2 camalot. (#3 optional)


Comments on Slippery Slab Add Comment
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By tenesmus
Sep 29, 2007

This is a lot of fun.
By C Blaes
May 4, 2014

The crack in the middle of pitch 3 has expanded. The piton that was there was buried up to the eye. It pulled out with one finger so I removed it. The pitch now has only two bolts between anchors. The climbing is easier on this pitch, but it's a long runout between bolts.
By C Blaes
Jun 25, 2014

I contacted the person who put up the route and per his advice I replaced the piton. It was actually on pitch two.

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