|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||callaghan strand mallery|
|Submitted By:||john strand on Mar 15, 2010|
|Comments on Slip o' Fools||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 23, 2010
|There is/was/maybe a thread on this on NE Climbs, actually on falling aspirations, but I think that it was affected and the affected pro was replaced.|
By Michael Z.
Jun 9, 2016
|Climbed the first pitch recently. It's good thought provoking and fun all the pro was good and we replaced decades of tat on the anchor with something nicer. Pitch 2 had one newer and one old bolt on it and looked to be in fine shape.|
By Tom Cal
Dec 26, 2016
This route was completely redone and cleared of loose rock in 10/16. When the Old Man fell he fell directly on this part of the cliff changing things quite a bit. Several of the routes in this area need to be redone and are most likely unclimbable.
1. Start 20 ft rt of Stairway to Heaven . Look for a thin vertical crack with a bolt visible at an overlap at 45ft. Climb the crack to the bolt. Pull over the tricky overlap (5.10A). Over the next overlap at an obvious break, to a sling belay. 80 ft.
2. Climb the beautiful slab past 2 bolts (5.9), to a Small rt facing corner. Up the corner to a thin face (you 5.9 )bolt, to a semi hanging belay. 2 bolts 80 ft.
3. Using micro cam pro climb over the overlap just left of the belay or further left. Both 5.10B. Continue up the thin face (5.9 bolt) to a stance. Diagonal rt to another bolt then up to a 2 bolt belay. 80 ft.
4. Climb over the overlap (pins). Climb an arch to it's left end. Climb the delicate face ( 5.9 bolt) to an overlap. Face climb over the overlap to a horizontal crack. Up face to a 2 bolt belay.
5. You can climb up and left from here to join Lakeview, and finish up Wiessners, but most will rappel from the top of P#4. The old P# 5 is completely gone! A single 60M rope gets you down in 4 rappels. If you have 2 ropes, do a short rappel to the top of P#3. From here 1 very long rappel Just makes the ground.
Rack; brass nuts and micro cams. Regular rack to 3 in. Optional 3.5 in. All bolts are new 3/8 SS.
Good climbing reasonable protection. Have fun!