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Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation) T 
Blockade Direct ? T 
Cirrus T 
Condescender T 
Condescending (Mid-Climb Variation) T 
Consolation Prize T 
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Fleabitten (Mid-Climb Variation) T 
Indented Slab (a "Mid-Cliff" Slab), The T 
Lakeview T 
Lima Bean T 
Micron T 
Odyssey of an Artichoke T 
Slip o' Fools T 
Snooky T 
Stretched On Your Grave TR 
unknown T 
Wag, The T 
Weissners Butress T 
Weissners Dike T 

Slip o' Fools 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: callaghan strand mallery
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 247
Submitted By: john strand on Mar 15, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Slip of Fools back in 1985. Climbed it with A chap...

Description 

I'm not sure if this has been hit by rockfall. it was very popular for a while, nice climbing at a moderate grade. I took a 70 footer at Albany Slabs on the morning of this f/a

Location 

Near Vendetta. Start in a seam to an overlap. P2 up a nice slab past 2 bolts to a belay under an overlap. P3 Up past fixed ? pins for about 90'. P4 up over a bulge to join Lakeview.

Protection 

some rp's and cams to 2"


Comments on Slip o' Fools Add Comment
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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 23, 2010

There is/was/maybe a thread on this on NE Climbs, actually on falling aspirations, but I think that it was affected and the affected pro was replaced.
By Michael Z.
Jun 9, 2016

Climbed the first pitch recently. It's good thought provoking and fun all the pro was good and we replaced decades of tat on the anchor with something nicer. Pitch 2 had one newer and one old bolt on it and looked to be in fine shape.
By Tom Cal
Dec 26, 2016

This route was completely redone and cleared of loose rock in 10/16. When the Old Man fell he fell directly on this part of the cliff changing things quite a bit. Several of the routes in this area need to be redone and are most likely unclimbable.

New Discription.

1. Start 20 ft rt of Stairway to Heaven . Look for a thin vertical crack with a bolt visible at an overlap at 45ft. Climb the crack to the bolt. Pull over the tricky overlap (5.10A). Over the next overlap at an obvious break, to a sling belay. 80 ft.

2. Climb the beautiful slab past 2 bolts (5.9), to a Small rt facing corner. Up the corner to a thin face (you 5.9 )bolt, to a semi hanging belay. 2 bolts 80 ft.

3. Using micro cam pro climb over the overlap just left of the belay or further left. Both 5.10B. Continue up the thin face (5.9 bolt) to a stance. Diagonal rt to another bolt then up to a 2 bolt belay. 80 ft.

4. Climb over the overlap (pins). Climb an arch to it's left end. Climb the delicate face ( 5.9 bolt) to an overlap. Face climb over the overlap to a horizontal crack. Up face to a 2 bolt belay.

5. You can climb up and left from here to join Lakeview, and finish up Wiessners, but most will rappel from the top of P#4. The old P# 5 is completely gone! A single 60M rope gets you down in 4 rappels. If you have 2 ropes, do a short rappel to the top of P#3. From here 1 very long rappel Just makes the ground.

Rack; brass nuts and micro cams. Regular rack to 3 in. Optional 3.5 in. All bolts are new 3/8 SS.

Good climbing reasonable protection. Have fun!

T .C.

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