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Sling Blade 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 220', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Frank Jackson / Jeff Dopp
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 75
Submitted By: Jeff Dopp on Oct 22, 2009

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Description 

P1. Start in an obvious, short dihedral. Climb about 15' until you can traverse left under a large loose looking block/roof. Traverse to the end of the roof, then go up past a 4' band of very smooth rock past two fixed pins (crux). Climb up and left and belay in a short right facing corner.
P2. Climb up left out around the corner and then straight up and slightly right on plates and chicken heads to a classic belay on a giant horn/saddle right smack on the arete (awesome view).
P3. Climb chicken heads with sparse pro to the rim and a large tree.

Location 

On the very right edge of the 911 wall 40' right of the start for The Nose. Approach up the left (west) side of the Crack House as you would for the Nose route

Protection 

A standard trad rack is fine. Bring plenty of 1/2 webbing runners for chicken-neckin.


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