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Slim Pickings 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Herb Laeger, Dennis Knuckles
Page Views: 916
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Jan 19, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: "Slim Pickings". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

The right-hand crack.

A strenuous move starts the crack, which then relents. Up to the horizontal crack and the last of the gear protection.

A new concept begins; a tricky move begins the thin edging past 2 bolts to the crux, and, relenting slightly past one more bolt to the chain anchors.

Rappel off the anchor.

Protection 

Small/medium cams, 3 bolts to a bolt anchor.


Photos of Slim Pickings Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nancy Yubima c. 1986
Nancy Yubima c. 1986
Rock Climbing Photo: Leslie Wilson c. 1986
Leslie Wilson c. 1986

Comments on Slim Pickings Add Comment
Show which comments
By Woody Stark
Jan 21, 2004

This route is very height dependent getting off the ground. I'd also say that the face above is mighty hard 10b.
By Joe Brophy
From: San Diego
Nov 15, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I thought this was also a fun and very challenging route. I must admit that I did grab the hanger on the third bolt! It felt quite solid/insecure for 10b. Might be a good idea to wear a helmet on this one! I would say at least 10c but fun either way.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
May 2, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'm going with 5.10c also..........this thing is a bitch! And I totally agree with the helmet idea on this one...to invert would have you in deep doo doo above the horizontal crack.
By armand rollice
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 27, 2008

I did this one twice. Very fun route. The last time I did it. It was very windy and when I got onto the face the wind felt like it was going to blow me off. The moves are hard and thin very balancy. With the wind it up the grade for me. So you think its 10b or really 10c?
By Taylor Sather
Nov 17, 2010

I don't know about upping the grade. I led this last year, and it was my first 5.10 in the park. I thought it felt pretty comfortable. We just did "An eye for an eye and a route for a route" over in Barker Dam area on lakeside rock, and that's rated 5.10b as well. I thought that route was substantially harder.
By Brian Chastain
Jan 14, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I thought this was a stiff 10b. The protection description is off, but actual description is right. There are three bolts up top on the slab and a bolt anchor. The second bolt is a little ways from bolt three. Not anything crazy for JT standards but could still send you for a good ride. All the clipping stances were pretty tough.....thin and smeary. Very fun though.

And Mr. Stark is right. The start was a real bitch for my girlfriend at 5' tall but no issue for me and I'm 5'8" on a good day.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Jan 28, 2014

I think it's 10b, the direct start is 10c and it gave me all kinds of problems, but not this one. Thanks for error in pro, I've updated it.

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