Type: | Trad |
FA: | Brett Yost, Karl Sutton 5/2003 |
Page Views: | 1,823 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Brett Yost on Nov 17, 2016 |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries
Details
2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Description
Super classic chimney climbing, both wide and squeeze. Full body chimneying will hopefully get you to the horizontal crack break. At this point (if not earlier if you are short) you will probably be forced to commit left or right. The FA chose the left joint and and worked the squeeze to the ledge and anchor atop The Long March. This climb is a great opportunity to have an old school Yosemite like climbing experience on a beautiful feature.
Protection
Standard issue wide cams will get you to the horizontal. The horizontal protects great with a finger sized cam, I believe. Above here, some nuts can be fiddled in by reaching well back into the column joint. These may be relatively blind placements. Specialized wide crack protection my be useful but I don't have specific beta.
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