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Slim Pickens 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Brett Yost, Karl Sutton 5/2003
Page Views: 252
Submitted By: Brett Yost on Nov 17, 2016

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Wengerbanger is the wider crack in the center of t...

Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Super classic chimney climbing, both wide and squeeze. Full body chimneying will hopefully get you to the horizontal crack break. At this point (if not earlier if you are short) you will probably be forced to commit left or right. The FA chose the left joint and and worked the squeeze to the ledge and anchor atop The Long March. This climb is a great opportunity to have an old school Yosemite like climbing experience on a beautiful feature.

Location 

Obvious wide chasm left of Wengerbanger. Picture Slim Pickens riding the missile.

Protection 

Standard issue wide cams will get you to the horizontal. The horizontal protects great with a finger sized cam, I believe. Above here, some nuts can be fiddled in by reaching well back into the column joint. These may be relatively blind placements. Specialized wide crack protection my be useful but I don't have specific beta.


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