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The Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Calling All Trad Climbers T 
Don't Ask T 
Gaiters T 
Most of the Time T 
Slight of Hand T,S 
Twisted T,S 
What's Wrong with Parents Today T,S 

Slight of Hand 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand
Season: faces South
Page Views: 73
Submitted By: Tony B on May 11, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Upper Left Bihedral area.

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  • Description 

    A climb with a definite balancy and thin crux sequence and some more moderate climbing.
    Start on the ground in indistinct but moderate terrain protecting wherever possible, with an eye to reaching the distinctive climbing. The target is a few bolts on a steep face near a "wrinkle" or perhaps you might call it a shallow seam in the rock. As you reach the hard moves, you can clip a bolt before committing to some thin and off-balance moves. The climb is probably honest 5.11b. Continue and the difficulty eases. Head up and slightly left over moderate terrain with trad gear again to the shared, bolted anchor as for the 2 climbs on either side.

    Location 

    The route is a variation of sorts between 'Most Of The Time' and 'Don't Ask'. It may share some of the indistinct terrain down low and merges up high to a shared (bolted) anchor.

    Protection 

    A rack of gear to 2" including nuts and cams + a few draws.


    Comments on Slight of Hand Add Comment
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    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    Mar 28, 2010

    This is called Slight of Hand. FA: Bob D & Greg Hand.
    By slim
    Administrator
    Nov 13, 2010
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    An ok route, but the bolt at the crux would be better located if it was to the right a bit. At its current location, you are looking at swinging fall into a slight offset. Probably wouldn't kill you but probably not fun either.

    Given the bolt location, I thought it went straight up, but the holds run out and you end up looking at a bulging, smooth mantel well above the bolt. Ended up down climbing and going to the right in a fairly pumped state, which felt kind of exciting for some reason.

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