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Slhanay (The Squaw)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Astride my Indian Queen T 
Babies in Kailand T 
Birds of Prey T 
Deviant's Games T 
Face Your Creator T 
Feather, The T 
Flight Simulator T 
Frayed Ends of Sanity S 
Godforsaken Land T 
Great Drain, The T 
Great Game, The T 
Jungle Warfare T 
Photophobia T 
Pipeline T 
Right Wing T 
Squeamishness T 
Supernatural T 
XTC Crack T 
Unsorted Routes:

Slhanay (The Squaw) Rock Climbing 

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Location: 49.6945, -123.1216 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,122
Administrators: Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ian Wolfe on Jul 25, 2006

58° | 39°

51° | 38°

49° | 38°

53° | 35°

60° | 44°

57° | 41°
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the view from New Life on the North North Arete.


The Squaw has a selection of excellent climbs, which, combined with its reletive seclusion and shady aspect, make this a great place to go on hot summer days. All climbs on the Squaw are fairly difficult, with nothing below the 10a rating. Great views of the town and of the North Gully of the Chief can be had from the wall, and much of the leftern reaches have yet to be explored.

The descent is down the right side of the formation on a somewhat obscure trail. Follow this down to a 4th class chimney with a fixed line. Continue down the trail until it meets up with the approach trail.

Getting There 

Take the forest service road about 1.5km past the Apron parking area to a small pull-out on the right. The approach trail is typically overgrown and tropical (like most at Squamish) but fairly straitforward.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.0 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Slhanay (The Squaw)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Slhanay (The Squaw):
Jungle Warfare   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   
Birds of Prey   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches   
The Great Drain   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches   
Photophobia   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 360'   
Pipeline   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 170'   
The Great Game   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Right Wing   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
Supernatural   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   
XTC Crack   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 60'   
The Feather   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 5 pitches, 550'   
Flight Simulator   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Slhanay (The Squaw)

Featured Route For Slhanay (The Squaw)
Rock Climbing Photo: the crux of the final pitch... overhanging kneebar...

Right Wing 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13  North America : Canada : ... : Slhanay (The Squaw)
Right Wing seeps and remains wet until the beginning of July (unless there's a dry spring). Keep this one for mid to late summer.P1. Climb Eagles Domain (same start as for Birds of Prey), a finger crack up a slab (5.8) for 60m then move right to the base of the major Right Wing corner system (70m).P2. A short, technical sport pitch (10c)P3. The Filibuster. A blockbuster lead, going through all the sizes. Not a move harder than 10b, not a move easier than 10a... for 58m. Prepare for battle.P4. Wh...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Slhanay (The Squaw) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The exit of the chimney on the 4th class descent o...
BETA PHOTO: The exit of the chimney on the 4th class descent o...
Rock Climbing Photo: The chimney on the 4th class descent option off Sl...
BETA PHOTO: The chimney on the 4th class descent option off Sl...
Rock Climbing Photo: The fixed line into the chimney on the 4th class d...
BETA PHOTO: The fixed line into the chimney on the 4th class d...
Rock Climbing Photo: The northern walls of the Chief as seen from Slhan...
BETA PHOTO: The northern walls of the Chief as seen from Slhan...
Rock Climbing Photo: The descent chimney
The descent chimney
Rock Climbing Photo: The Squaw. 6/2011  Photo: Corey Gargano
The Squaw. 6/2011 Photo: Corey Gargano
Rock Climbing Photo: The Forest Service road with the Squaw formation i...
The Forest Service road with the Squaw formation i...

Comments on Slhanay (The Squaw) Add Comment
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By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 4, 2009
I went up to The Squaw for the first time this weekend. It's a fantastic area! The routes tend to towards vertical cracks, but there are some overhangs and roofs, and the rock quality is great.

There was a laminated sheet with some new route information at the base. Mr. Barley has been at it again. It appears that there are two new routes starting just left of the first pitch of Birds of Prey. I don't remember the details (I'll try to get them), but at least one of them was another 4 pitch 10+.

The descent is a very interesting scramble through a cave formed by some house-sized blocks.

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