Slhanay (The Squaw) Rock Climbing
the view from New Life on the North North Arete.
The Squaw has a selection of excellent climbs, which, combined with its reletive seclusion and shady aspect, make this a great place to go on hot summer days. All climbs on the Squaw are fairly difficult, with nothing below the 10a rating. Great views of the town and of the North Gully of the Chief can be had from the wall, and much of the leftern reaches have yet to be explored.
The descent is down the right side of the formation on a somewhat obscure trail. Follow this down to a 4th class chimney with a fixed line. Continue down the trail until it meets up with the approach trail.
Take the forest service road about 1.5km past the Apron parking area to a small pull-out on the right. The approach trail is typically overgrown and tropical (like most at Squamish) but fairly straitforward.
Climbing Season For the Squamish area.
Weather station 2.0 miles from here
18 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Slhanay (The Squaw)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Slhanay (The Squaw)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Slhanay (The Squaw):
Photophobia 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 360'
Pipeline 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 5 pitches, 170'
Right Wing 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
PG13 Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Supernatural 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
XTC Crack 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 60'
The Feather 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, 5 pitches, 550'
Featured Route For Slhanay (The Squaw)
Flight Simulator 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a North America
: ... : Slhanay (The Squaw)
Once you see the second pitch corner from the ground, it's hard not to want to climb it. The other pitches are fine too and the crux pitch, move for move, may be harder, but the corner is certainly the focal point of this climb.P1: Short, slightly flaring finger and thin hand crack. If the second pitch is .11d, this one is probably more like .10d or .11a. In any case, the crux is short lived.P2: Bolted slab climbing leads to a tough move entering the corner. The crack in the clean, shallow corne...[more] Browse More Classics in International
BETA PHOTO: The exit of the chimney on the 4th class descent o...
BETA PHOTO: The chimney on the 4th class descent option off Sl...
BETA PHOTO: The fixed line into the chimney on the 4th class d...
BETA PHOTO: The northern walls of the Chief as seen from Slhan...
The Squaw. 6/2011 Photo: Corey Gargano
The Forest Service road with the Squaw formation i...
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 4, 2009
I went up to The Squaw for the first time this weekend. It's a fantastic area! The routes tend to towards vertical cracks, but there are some overhangs and roofs, and the rock quality is great.
There was a laminated sheet with some new route information at the base. Mr. Barley has been at it again. It appears that there are two new routes starting just left of the first pitch of Birds of Prey. I don't remember the details (I'll try to get them), but at least one of them was another 4 pitch 10+.
The descent is a very interesting scramble through a cave formed by some house-sized blocks.