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Sleezy Mormon 

A3

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 90'
Original: A3 [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Maggie Ross
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 126
Submitted By: toddgordon Gordon on Jun 26, 2010

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Description 

This is the left of two aid lines which are on the wall left of Not A Hogan. There are a few "chicken " bolts along the seam at the start....I tried doing it without, and a piece popped out, hit me in the face (I got 4 stitches), and then all the pieces ripped and I decked out too. When I returned to finish the climb, I did it with the chicken bolts. After the dicey start, it finishes with a crack which takes stoppers, TCUs and cams.

Location 

On the wall left of Not a Hogan on TeePee Rock.

Protection 

The starts has a hook, some RURPS/heads/beaks and QDs for the chicken bolts, then the crack opens up to stoppers, TCUs, cams, and soon you are at the top,


Comments on Sleezy Mormon Add Comment
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By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Jun 26, 2010

The right aid climb is also A3, but is more dicey for it has no "chicken" bolts, and there is a big gritty boulder at the base to land on it your placements fail; much more committing, but no more difficult then it's brother to the left. FA Tom Wolfe 1999
By alex ostrovsky
Jun 15, 2016

I've seen these aid routes every time i pass this area, do they go clean?.. or what kind of iron should i bring?
By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Jun 16, 2016

nothing more than the recommended gear list;.....some quick draws for the bolts, a few RURPS, beaks, and copperheads..then stoppers and TCUs.....it's very safe with the chicken bolts.....and one hook for the opening move.

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