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Donnelly Canyon
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5.10 Corner T 
Ansaid Tower T 
Binou's Crack T 
Chocolate Corner T 
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Mr. Peanut T 
Naked and Dead, The T 
Naked and the Dead Variation T 
Ocean Negro T 
Owl Crack T 
Rainbow Sign T 
Sister Skywalker T 
Sleeve of Wizard T 
Thing, The T 
Twitterpated T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 5.10+ T 
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Violently Happy T 

Sleeve of Wizard 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman, Pat Kingsbury 2/10/12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 796
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Dec 24, 2012

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About to exit over cups bulge.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A nicely varied OW-squeeze with featured rock and more face holds than typical of the Creek. Very reminiscent of Zion.

Start with a flared OW/squeeze with good hands in the back, pull out of the flare into a cups splitter, run it out up a wider chimney to a bolt, and finish with a tough squeeze section to a belay alcove. Great blue collar outing!

Location 

On the wall directly behind Ansaid Spire.

Protection 

1 bolt, (3x)2,3 (2x)new 4,new 5,6, plenty of shoulder-length slings, chains


Photos of Sleeve of Wizard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the upper chimney.
Approaching the upper chimney.
Rock Climbing Photo: In the lower squeeze.
In the lower squeeze.

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By Christina Freschl
From: Berkeley, California
Apr 12, 2013

Good route, but super loose rock. Make sure your belayer has a helmet on.

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