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Sleepy Hollow aka Lakeside Rock, South

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bewitched S 
Carving Pumpkins S 
Friendly Ghost, The TR 
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun S 
Saw TR 
Trick or Treat S 

Sleepy Hollow aka Lakeside Rock, South Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.02665, -116.14609 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,443
Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Jan 30, 2015
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Sleepy Hollow A. Trick or Treat 5.9- B. Ghouls Ju...

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Description 

This is a short, overhanging cliff with an assortment of moderate sport climbs, discovered by Chris Baumann in 2014. The cliff faces north, and is shady most of the time. All the routes are sport climbs with bolt anchors.

Much of the climbing is on nicely featured patina with positive holds, but there is some chossy rock, and some holds have broken unexpectedly, so it's a good idea for the belayer to wear a helmet.

Getting There 

Approach from the Barker Dam Road. From the Echo "T" drive .6 miles east (toward Barker Dam Parking Lot) and park at the third pullout on the right (.6 miles east of the Echo "T" ). This is about 1/4 mile before the Barker Dam Parking lot, and the same parking as for More Monkey Than Funky.

From the pullout, look for the biggest pine tree, at the top of the formation, about 200 yards left of the More Monkey Than Funky route. Sleepy Hollow is directly under this tree, hidden from view, facing north.

Walk north (following an old, fallen-down chickenwire fenceline) and head toward the notch/pass just left of the huge More Monkey Than Funky rock massif. This notch or pass is about 200 yards left of the More Monkey Than Funky route. As you approach this gap in the rock formations, Sleepy Hollow will be to your right, facing north, hidden until you're almost there.

Climbing Season

For the Barker Dam Area area.

Weather station 9.0 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sleepy Hollow aka Lakeside Rock, South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sleepy Hollow aka Lakeside Rock, South:
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
The Friendly Ghost   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Carving Pumpkins   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sleepy Hollow aka Lakeside Rock, South

Featured Route For Sleepy Hollow aka Lakeside Rock, South
Rock Climbing Photo: Rolf Rybak on Carving Pumpkins

Carving Pumpkins 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  California : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Sleepy Hollow aka Lakeside ...
This is the longest route on the cliff, second from the right. Start with an undercling, then power through (10b/c; somewhat height dependent) a slightly overhanging bulge to a ledge (3 bolts). Continue up an easier corner on orange varnish past a 4th and 5th bolt, then, at the 6th bolt, move left at a tricky undercling (5.10-), then back right past a 7th bolt up to the top and a chain anchor. The 7th bolt was not used on the first ascent and was added later to protect the follower (or...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on Sleepy Hollow aka Lakeside Rock, South Add Comment
Show which comments
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 30, 2015
Yippee, thanks Bob & Chris.
By Doug18
Nov 16, 2015
Fun routes, Set up TR for a group, good place to check out. Oh we had the place to ourselves on a busy weekend. Nice!

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