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Sleepless in Boulder 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,519
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Apr 3, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, left side.

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  • Description 

    Sleepless in Boulder starts just left of The Art of Dreaming. Climb up a short corner to an obvious horn. Power up steep rock, laybacking to a good stance. Make nice face moves and continue up the steep face past several bolts to cool moves up and over a bulge to a hard move on a small arete. Climb past the arete using a thin crack on the left and arete on the right. Float to the anchor.


    11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

    Photos of Sleepless in Boulder Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Art of Dreaming and nearby routes.
    BETA PHOTO: Art of Dreaming and nearby routes.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mr. Sandman, Golden Slumber, Sleepless In Boulder.
    BETA PHOTO: Mr. Sandman, Golden Slumber, Sleepless In Boulder.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Gettin' up there, thanks for the belay, Kris.
    Gettin' up there, thanks for the belay, Kris.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Sleepless in Boulder.
    The start of Sleepless in Boulder.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Thanks for the picture, Mike.
    Thanks for the picture, Mike.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lorant starting Sleepless (back in Feb '08).
    Lorant starting Sleepless (back in Feb '08).

    Comments on Sleepless in Boulder Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 17, 2015
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Apr 29, 2002

    This a great route but needs a thorough cleaning. Lots of friable flaky rock and also a questionable fairly large flake near the top. I'm thinking that's going to come out soon with someone holding onto it.
    By Andy Moore
    Jun 7, 2002

    On May 31, my partner and I counted 11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. And there is indeed a slightly loose flake near the top of the route. At first glance, it is an inviting hold, which you reach right for, just below a clip (at the 10th bolt, I believe). When I grabbed it, it groaned in a sickening way. Also, at the beginning of the route, be wary of a large slabby block (about 3 feet by 4 feet by 8 inches) between bolts 1 and 2. The top of the block is a very sharp juggy rail that you use for your hands and later your feet. This block seemed solid, but there doesn't seem to be much keeping it attached to the wall; it is undercut below, and there are cracks on all the other sides, including underneath.
    By Ken Leiden
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 8, 2003

    Climbed this a couple of weeks ago. Good jugs on steep rock down low. Upper headwall moves are pretty cool. Agree with the comment about the huge flake between bolts 1 and 2, although it *sounds* completely solid. Didn't notice the loose flake up high though so maybe its gone now. Check for loose nuts on the bolts -- two bolts (one at the anchor and one a couple of bolts from the top) had extremely loose nuts.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 11, 2003
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Good route, one of the better ones I did at the cliff. It had a little of everything, jug-fest section, power section, balance, crimp, mantle.

    I'm not a big fan of one-move wonders with a pile of 5.9 aside... and this was not one of those- it kept my attention. Good route.

    Seems a little easy for mid 5.11, but it's good at any grade.
    By TBD
    Jul 21, 2003
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Perhaps I missed something, but it felt a little tough for 11a/b to me. Fun none the less.
    By Joe Collins
    Sep 2, 2003
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Fun climbing. This probably deserves one star right now, but once it cleans up a bit it will be a solid 2 star route.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Oct 10, 2003
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Hard and strenuous at the bottom. Easy in the middle. Perplexing moves right and up at the top. I moved right onto the "arete" for the last moves to the anchors. Is that what people do? There was a bit of chalk going straight up the thin crack using small sloping footholds. But you'd have to reach right anyway to clip the anchors.

    I didn't notice anything loose, but I see the big yellow question mark on the big flake in the photo. I, and presumably everyone else, hung on this flake with full body weight.

    I rate climbs by Eldo and Boulder Canyon trad standards, so I'm calling this 11a. Could be 10d by those standards. I typically struggle (ie, hang once or twice) on 10c trad, but onsighted this.
    By Bruce Pech
    Mar 22, 2004
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Variety is the spice of life. Overhanging laybacks, moderate face, and some interesting moves to reach the arete. Didn't see any loose rock on the route -- but reaching the bolt that protects the hard move right to the arete is a stretch.
    By Wyo Mike
    Jan 5, 2005

    I repeated this route about two weeks ago. It is an excellent route, but a huge flake has broken off between the first and second bolt changing the difficulty of the climb the ease of clipping the second bolt. It is still a good route but be prepared for a rating that is a letter grade or two above the current rating, especially if you are short!
    By Ken Leiden
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 6, 2005

    Are you talking about the giant flake with a yellow question mark on it in the photo above the "comments" section? I hope not.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 6, 2005

    Eight-foot crow bar?

    And to think, all this time I haven't had one of these on my rack. And everybody knows that you ain't diddley without a really big tool!

    So, where'd you get it? Neptune's only carries the 3 foot model.
    By Kirk Woerner
    Jan 6, 2005

    Sort of too bad. That route was nicknamed the guillotine :)
    By TBlom
    Jun 8, 2005

    Is the climb still around 11a without the block?
    By Keegan Wilson
    Jun 14, 2005

    I did this route on Saturday and it felt a bit harder than 11a to me and it appears that the missing block may have assisted in the feet situation between the second and third bolts. I am also comparing the grade to other grades in the canyon which can obviously change things. All in all, I think Sleepless in Boulder is a great route.
    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    Jul 7, 2005
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    I finally got this yesterday and I give it 5.11c. I never climbed it before the flake was removed and I think it has probably become significantly harder. Instead of standing on top of the now-defunct flake, you have to lie back and get your left foot high on a flaring crack that is above where the flake used to be. This entire bottom section is fairly burly and leaves you tired when you finally pull it.

    I think another tough section is at about the 7th bolt as seen in the photo. At this point there is an edge on which to layback, but it's difficult to get into. The layback is left-facing, and you start to the left of it, so there is an awkward swing into the layback position. Once you clip and mantel onto the holds over the clip, there are few holds on the face and I had to reach right for the arete. I think this is on-route. You also have to reach right for the arete before achieving the anchors, unless I'm a wuss and there is some way to stay on the face without using the arete.
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jan 15, 2006
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Nice variety, fun route. From the perspective of a TR watching someone suss out the moves, I'd agree with Bob, this felt 5.11a/b. Around 7th bolt, there is a foothold R to make the move easier. Seemed the crux was around the 9th bolt moving R to the lieback.
    By brent pohlmann
    From: San Francisco, CA
    Sep 25, 2006

    I tried this route on Saturday, and right after you clip the first bolt, there is an obvious horn out left with a ton of chalk on it that is now pretty loose. Does anyone know if it's always been that loose or is this a recent development?
    By desbien
    From: seattle,wa
    Apr 23, 2007

    The loose horn is now X'ed. I didn't tempt fate and avoided it throughout. Tough bottom section in the 11d range, upper section is a breeze with a considerably easier upper crux. Fun route, little blah in the middle. This is not an 11a/b, c if not d for the lower crux. Sandbaggers abound!
    By Jeremy
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 20, 2008
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Maybe I'm just weak these days, but this felt pretty solid 11c to me. No loose rock that I found that I needed.
    By slim
    Aug 8, 2012
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Burly start but luckily you are fresh for this part. Mostly easy climbing. I didn't really like the bolt placement up at the 'step across' move. The move isn't that difficult but a little awkward. The bolt should have been placed higher, so that you could clip from the high point of the good hand holds. There is a ledge about 10 feet below, and your belayer can't hear or see you at this spot.
    By Rick Vermeil
    From: Erie, CO
    May 17, 2015
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    This line starts off with some interesting opposing force moves to attain the good holds at the 3rd bolt and then immediately sends you in to a powerful lieback crux. It's really pumpy from the ground up through the 4th bolt and warrants an 11c rating in my opinion. I think the given rating of 11a no longer applies, since the big flake directly under the crux was removed. Grab some big jugs at the top of the sequence, and de-pump while on a nice cruise up through rock features similar to its neighbor Mr. Sandman. Come to a big, chalked-up flake, and prepare for the second crux to gain the arete and then up to the anchors. A long route with lots of intriguing moves, great rock features, and two distinct cruxes makes for an excellent sport route!

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