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Sleeping with Giants 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a C1 [details]
FA: Matthew Morriss, Jack Lazar
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 324
Submitted By: Morrismc on Jul 18, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The "Molar" where we put up Sleeping wit...

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Sleeping with Giants is on a sub formation to the right of the White Fang. Jack and I hiked all the way up intending to put up a new route on the Fang and ended up being intimidated out of the true south face and turned out attention to this smaller feature just to the right of the Fang.

The Molar may be a better name for it.

Three pitches:

P1: 5.6 approach pitch. Puts you at the bottom of the tight corner that finishes in an overhanging, flaring tight hands crack. Great stance to belay from at the top of pitch one.

P2: 5.11+ C1. Follow the corner up until the climb keep steepening, eventually the going gets tough and either super man pull your way up on flaring tight hands through what may go at 5.12 and catch the first knuckle bad finger lock with your left hand or do what I did and stand up on a nut until it allows you to gain enough purchase with your left hand to beached whale your way up to a great belay ledge.

P3: 5.7ish. Clamber left between rock and tree and then turn right up and between the rocks (caving) until you reach sandy flat spot, you can unrope here and keep going up the ridge or drop off to the east and descend down our rap anchors.

Descent:
At the top of whereever you want to stop climbing (or the top of pitch 3), rap to the east and scramble down the ridge making a few 35 m raps that end in a scramble down to the bottom of the condor buttress. When in doubt, keep heading to skiers right back to the west. There are lots of trees to rap off of

Location 

Head up the approach to the bottom of the White Fang until the gulley gets steeper and wetter. At some point, there is a point at which you have to get out of the gulley to ledges on climbers right. From here keep traversing right until you end up at the base of a corner system that has an over hanging roof "hand crack" (see beta photos)

Protection 

Bring a single rack to three, with a few extra finger pieces. Micro wires are nice for the single aid move, but it will probably go free for someone without a backpack on a 12ish...?

Not fixed gear on the way up, our slings on the descent should still be in place (1 single 70 m should do)


Photos of Sleeping with Giants Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: heading up gulley between the fang and the molar. ...
heading up gulley between the fang and the molar. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: beautiful view of central Enchantments from top of...
beautiful view of central Enchantments from top of...
Rock Climbing Photo: first ascent team much dirtier after cleaning the ...
first ascent team much dirtier after cleaning the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: caving on pitch 3
caving on pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Jack tunnels left between rocks and tree for begin...
Jack tunnels left between rocks and tree for begin...
Rock Climbing Photo: the roof to pull on pitch 2.
the roof to pull on pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jack starting up P1 (5.6) 30 m
Jack starting up P1 (5.6) 30 m

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